The Oldtimey Eleven  5.11c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  Anderson and Moscowicz New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  richard magill on Aug 7, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5280647.pdf. For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The name comes from the myriad complaints about the rating from some of the crew, which were met only with the comment, "it's an old timey eleven".

So you might find this a bit of a sandbag, but we are pretty sure there is no move harder than 11c on the line. Just be ready for plenty of difficult climbing and continuity.

This route ascends the overhanging dihedral that separates the left vertical panel from the giant roof. It is just right of Crank Du Jour. This is the longest route at the crag and although it isn't the most difficult, it may be the best.

Protection 

13-14 bolts, stick clip is nice for the first bolt.