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DescriptionThe Old Settler is a rock peak located east of Harrison Lake in the Coast Mountains. The peak offers rock routes of up to 12 pitches length with a generally short and glacier-free approach, as well as good camping. The rock on the south side of the mountain is ultramafic and amongst the best in the Coast Mts - not to be missed - while on the north part of the mountain it decreases somewhat in quality. Most routes see some traffic but not can be considered busy; lineups are unlikely and seeing another party is rare. Getting ThereThe mountain is usually approached via the Harrison East FSR (Forest Service Road) from Harrison Hot Springs. Drive the paved road up the east side of Harrison Lake to Sasquatch PP, then the gravel logging road north for about 25km to Bear Creek logging camp. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Old Settler:
West Couloir 4th Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 10000 feet, Grade II
South to North Traverse 4th Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 2500 feet, Grade III
West Buttress of the South Peak Easy 5th Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade III
Complete Northwest Ridge 5.6 Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, 5000 feet, Grade III
East Buttress of the South Peak 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 2000 feet, Grade III
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade III
Mars Western 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III
Totally Spurious 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III
The Contact Zone 5.8+ Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III
Black September 5.10- Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV
Duck a L'Orange 5.10- Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade IV
Featured Route For The Old Settler
East Buttress of the South Peak 5.7 International : Canada : ... : The Old Settler
Begin on the north side of the buttress toe below a prominent slabby dihedral. Climb up along the right side of this dihedral and adjacent cracks and slabs for three pitches up to 5.6. Continue on lower-angle terrain (Class 4 and easy Class 5) for another three pitches (good for simulclimbing) to a belay in a prominent cave. Climb the overhang out the left side of the cave (5.7 crux) and up two more pitches above to the summit dome of the south peak.The rock on this route is equally as good as t...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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