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The Old Settler
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Select Route:
Black September 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) 
Complete Northwest Ridge 
Contact Zone, The 
Duck a L'Orange 
East Buttress of the South Peak 
Mars Western 
South to North Traverse 
Standard Route 
Totally Spurious 
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge 
West Buttress of the South Peak 
West Couloir 
West Face of the North Peak 

The Old Settler 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,994'
Lat, Long: 49.5105, -121.6224 Map
Page Views: 2,237. Good page? (3 likes)   
Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Peter Spindloe, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 16, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: The Old Settler - west face from the air

Description 

The Old Settler is a rock peak located east of Harrison Lake in the Coast Mountains. The peak offers rock routes of up to 12 pitches length with a generally short and glacier-free approach, as well as good camping. The rock on the south side of the mountain is ultramafic and amongst the best in the Coast Mts - not to be missed - while on the north part of the mountain it decreases somewhat in quality. Most routes see some traffic but not can be considered busy; lineups are unlikely and seeing another party is rare.


Getting There 

The mountain is usually approached via the Harrison East FSR (Forest Service Road) from Harrison Hot Springs. Drive the paved road up the east side of Harrison Lake to Sasquatch PP, then the gravel logging road north for about 25km to Bear Creek logging camp.

From here, the approach to the summit splits. West and south facing routes are approached via Talc Creek North FSR, which requires 4wd and is about 12km long. From the driveable road in Talc Creek, hike a deactivated spur for 2 hours then bushwhack through the south side of the subalpine bowl and climb a forested headwall through old growth to good campsites at Daiphy Lake (1 hr up to lake from old road.) The base of the routes on the peak can be reached in about 1 hour from the lake over talus.

Routes on the north and east side of the Old Settler can be reached via Settler Creek road. Drive Cogburn Creek FSR from the logging camp to about the 15km mark, then cross a bridge to the south and double back into the Settler Creek drainage. The logging road here is deactivated and in poor shape but can be followed for 6km to a lake below the Settler's north face.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Old Settler:
West Couloir   4th Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 10000 feet, Grade II   
South to North Traverse   4th     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 2500 feet, Grade III   
West Buttress of the South Peak   Easy 5th     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade III   
Complete Northwest Ridge   5.6 Easy Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, 5000 feet, Grade III   
East Buttress of the South Peak   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 2000 feet, Grade III   
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck)   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade III   
Mars Western   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   
Totally Spurious   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III   
The Contact Zone   5.8+     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   
Black September   5.10-     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV   
Duck a L'Orange   5.10-     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade IV   
Browse More Classics in The Old Settler

Featured Route For The Old Settler
Kurt Fickeisen climbing out of the cave to start the crux pitch during the first ascent.

East Buttress of the South Peak 5.7  International : Canada : ... : The Old Settler
Begin on the north side of the buttress toe below a prominent slabby dihedral. Climb up along the right side of this dihedral and adjacent cracks and slabs for three pitches up to 5.6. Continue on lower-angle terrain (Class 4 and easy Class 5) for another three pitches (good for simulclimbing) to a belay in a prominent cave. Climb the overhang out the left side of the cave (5.7 crux) and up two more pitches above to the summit dome of the south peak.The rock on this route is equally as good as t...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


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By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From: North Vancouver, BC
Mar 17, 2009

Nice contribution Dru! Looks like a great area.