The Old Settler is a rock peak located east of Harrison Lake in the Coast Mountains. The peak offers rock routes of up to 12 pitches length with a generally short and glacier-free approach, as well as good camping. The rock on the south side of the mountain is ultramafic and amongst the best in the Coast Mts - not to be missed - while on the north part of the mountain it decreases somewhat in quality. Most routes see some traffic but not can be considered busy; lineups are unlikely and seeing another party is rare.
The mountain is usually approached via the Harrison East FSR (Forest Service Road) from Harrison Hot Springs. Drive the paved road up the east side of Harrison Lake to Sasquatch PP, then the gravel logging road north for about 25km to Bear Creek logging camp.
14 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Old Settler
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Old Settler:
West Couloir 4th 1 2 I M 1b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 10000'
South to North Traverse 4th 1 2 I M 1b Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 2500'
West Buttress of the South Peak Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1100'
Complete Northwest Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, 5000'
East Buttress of the South Peak 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000'
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 2000'
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200'
Mars Western 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000'
Totally Spurious 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900'
The Contact Zone 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'
Black September 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1000'
Duck a L'Orange 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1100'
Featured Route For The Old Settler
East Buttress of the South Peak 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b International : Canada : ... : The Old Settler
Begin on the north side of the buttress toe below a prominent slabby dihedral. Climb up along the right side of this dihedral and adjacent cracks and slabs for three pitches up to 5.6. Continue on lower-angle terrain (Class 4 and easy Class 5) for another three pitches (good for simulclimbing) to a belay in a prominent cave. Climb the overhang out the left side of the cave (5.7 crux) and up two more pitches above to the summit dome of the south peak.The rock on this route is equally as good as t...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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