|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 420', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]|
|FA:||FA Fritz Wiessner|
|Submitted By:||Paul Deagle on Nov 14, 2012|
|Comments on The Old Route||Add Comment|
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By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
Jun 5, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
I first did this when I started climbing 15 years ago. Did not lead crux pitches then. Absolutely great route, should be a 5 star classic, but P1 either isn't 5.4 or P2 isn't 5.4. Assuming P2 is 5.4, then P1 is 5.5 to 5.6, signifcantly more sustained, dirty/wet and strenous. While falls were safe (and unlikely), and gear was plentiful below the corner, placing gear in the corner ramp while laybacking was impossible since it was at your ankles and out of sight (PG). I had to essentially wedge myself into the corner and squirm up it. My second did the same to clean. Alternate option is to layback run out the corner to the pin (about 70 years old, maybe it holds) and then the climbing is done above the pin. The rest of the route is straight forward and spectacular. Feels like an alpine adventure the way it wanders and finishes on a summit. The V2 crack is steep, question the 5.5 rating looking at it, but didn't climb it as it was wet.
Pro: Standard rack. it will take anything. I used hexes, cams, tricams and nuts on almost every pitch or at the belays. I recommend screamers, especially for the pin at the top of P1. Double ropes helpful to reduce rope drag on this wandering route.