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Old Man of Stoer, Lochinver
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Old Man of Stoer, The T 

The Old Man of Stoer 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 240', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Patey,Brian Robinson,Brian Henderson,Paul Nunn 1966
Page Views: 1,558
Submitted By: USBRIT on Dec 23, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Old man of Stoer looking down from the landside

Description 

Descend steep grass to reach the sea. One has to swim a 30' channel to reach the stack and then set up a tyrolean .Starting from a cluster of pitons. There are two other rotes up the stack one 5.9 the other 5.11. Described is the original route .P1)Climb the landward face for 12' to gain a big horizontal crack that leads one around the corner to the left arete (cam pro)to a large corner ledge. Climb up left wards from under an overhang to reach a groove.Go directly up the crack to another large ledge on the arete.70'5.7 P2)Climb the a steep wall via a rightwards curving crack to overhangs through these using a crack.Go delicately left to ledges and continue to a cave with a thread belay.70' 5.8 P3) Go rightwards around the arete back to the landward side and right up a ramp ignoring the first upward break to gain a small ledge with a block belay.Beware of pucking Fulmers.40'5.5. P4)Climb the obvious groove to easy rock and finish up a small corner to a fine airy summit.50'5.6. Make a 150' rap mostly in space down the SE corner to a platform. Then rap to the base from the right side of the ledge.


Location 

Stor Peninsula. NW Scottish coast.


Protection 

Normal rack cams and stoppers.



Photos of The Old Man of Stoer Slideshow Add Photo
The Original Route.240'5.8 (HVS)
The Original Route.240'5.8 (HVS)
P.Ross on the summit of The Old Man
P.Ross on the summit of The Old Man
Busy day on the Old man of Stoer
Busy day on the Old man of Stoer
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