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 ADVANCED
Middle Mother's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beyer's Rib T,S 
Centurion T,S 
Connotation T,S 
Coxswain T,S 
Days of Wine and Roses T 
Definite Article T 
Denotation T,S 
Denouement T,S 
Dirty Harry T 
Double Reach Around, The T,S 
Dreamscape T 
Drive-by Diking T,S 
First Impressions T 
Flora Dora T 
Free Falling T 
Indirect Objects T 
Iron Maiden T,S 
Jagged Edge T 
Jenny-Lynn's Special T 
No Name 1 T 
No Name 2 S 
No Name 3 T 
No Name 4 T,S 
Ol' Hucklebuck, The T 
On Golden Pond T 
Rise of the Phoenix T 
Scanners T 
Under the Roof T 
Wandering Charm T,S 

The Ol' Hucklebuck 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jesse Zacher, Rob Pizem
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 569
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Nov 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Me just before clipping the econd bolt bolt.The ro...

Description 

This is a great warmup for the other routes to the right and left. A long, moderate climb with a little bit of everything on great rock.

Pull through two bolts and place some small hard to find pro. Look to the left and right as you climb up for the seams that will take a #0.4 Camalot and a blue Metolius. Gain a ledge and climb the obvious, left-facing dihedral that looks like a giant offwidth. Do not let this turn you away. The corner climbs with face and arete features with minimal OW. Pull a fun move over a roof and gain a face split with many cracks. The easiest way through is by trending right and up for 20 feet and traversing back left to the obvious ledge.

This puts you in perfect position to continue up "On Golden Pond".

Location 

The route starts 10 feet right of Flora Dora and 30 feet left of Free Falling.

There is an obvious double ring rap station at the top of the pitch. Two ropes!

This also serves as the rap route for any of the climbs that continue for the second pitch. The second pitch anchors have been replaced as well.

Protection 

A double set from blue metolious to #3 Camalot. One #4 and one #5 Camalot. Two draws for the beginning and lots of slings! It is a long pitch, so extend everything!


Photos of The Ol' Hucklebuck Slideshow Add Photo
The line roughly follows the hanging rope.
The line roughly follows the hanging rope.

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By rob pizem
Aug 15, 2011

It was a spedoinkle day when we rocked that route!
It climbs some face into a casual crack that varies in width. The face moves could be spicy, but thanks to the maker of bolts, you are happily and safely protected.
piz : )
By Chris Ferraro
Nov 16, 2011

Crack was pretty dirty. Not bad, but not great. The routes around this one are much better. But I guess it needs some traffic to clean it up. Took a little gumption to pull some of the moves with gear a ways down and committing a bit on not so amazing rock.
By Alex Garhart
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Fun route with a great section of sustained stemming. After the bolts I placed two bomber 0.4 BDs before reaching the ledge. In addition to the gear above, I would recommend an additional #5 or #6 Camalot.