Main wall is 20-100m north-facing in a large alcove protected from the prevailing W/SW winds. Beautiful, secluded setting with an uncharacteristically dense collection of stellar routes on high-quality Wingate sandstone, several topping out. 'Bout as cool as it gets on Utah redrock...
Just outside the park north of U24. 2 mile hike, 250m climb to base, park at second unsigned pullout east of Rimrock hotel/restaraunt, head up steep trail to path west along shelf below cliffs, past a couple of older multi-pitch aid lines (hard free potential). Continue around large alcove/bay on diminishing trail (stick to wash bottoms and rocks or thoughtfully cairned routes). Climb up to base near peninsula tip or further into north-side drainage.
Optional 20' handcrack roof sit-start from back of the 'black hole' is sweet fun (and harder). Otherwise, pull up into perfect hands corner at the lip, follow to 6' chickenwing OW, then hands again with a bit of cupping just before nice top-out stance....[more]Browse More Classics in UT
This is a special area for climbing in the Canyonlands, and deserves respectful enjoyment from local and visiting climbers. I have moved some distance away before completing my original development intentions, and am going to invite some new connoisseurs to carry on. I'd really appreciate continuing attention to a few aesthetic choices regarding trails, anchors and publicity. Essentially, low-impact, as best you know how (or can determine in consultation with familiar parties).
Bolts and anchor paraphernalia are a visual impact, and while the neighboring Park's comprehensive ban is overbearing, please keep things out of plain sight from off the rock!
Please don't post info for this crag to others until you've been there at least twice, and have a direct feeling for what it's about and how your promotions may affect things.