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 ADVANCED
Y - North Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beastie Crack T,TR 
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 
Flat-footed T,TR 
Hard Start TR 
Herb's Roof T,TR 
Hessing Route T,TR 
Inside Dihedral T,TR 
Left Mother T,TR 
Less-Hard Start T,TR 
Lizard Man T 
Middle Mother T,TR 
Nose, The TR 
Notch, The T,TR 
Open Book T,TR 
Original Open Book T,TR 
Porter Route T 
Ramp, The T,TR 
Rigid Deffacator T 
Triple Overhang T,TR 
Wisconsin T,TR 

The Notch 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 265
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 11, 2008

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Description 

Choose from various starts: Boy Scout (5.8/5.9), or Inside Dihedral (5.8/5.9), to exit the cave. Soon you'll reach a big ledge that ramps up to the left (Broadway ledge).
The Notch goes straight up the finger crack from the middle of Broadway ledge. You can get just enough pro in to keep it reasonable, especially a bigger cam under an overlap midway up. Committing to the start (off Broadway ledge) may be the toughest part mentally, or keeping your composure to punch it to the top on the pocketed section where the crack pinches down.

A tougher lead than most other 5.10s at the Y.

Location 

The Notch takes a finish up the 2nd steep crack to the right of Open Book. See topo.

Protection 

1 set cams to 3", 1 set nuts.
Save some gear for an anchor, or use static rope off dying trees.


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