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Starting at the base of the 2nd pitch for chimney, climb up to the roof and place pro in the thin crack to the left. Then make a wild traverse left to the corner of the steep wall and gain the top via a series of jugs and an armbar in the wide crack. Pumpy and exposed!
This is above the buttress on the corner to the left of the chimney and to the right of Lizard's Head.
It has good protection, but it is somewhat strenuous to place. When making the traverse to the left, you may want to have the large blue cam ready as a fall before placing it would be ugly. At least one broken hip has resulted from this.