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The Castle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.9 crack climb T 
Betterman T 
Camel Walk, The T 
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 
Dalke - Jennings T 
Dewitt Route T 
Dungeon, The T 
Great Chimney Route T 
Guillotine T 
Hardgumbi's Lament T 
Nose, The T 
Rapunzel T 
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 
Southeast Gully T 
Throne Room T 
Uncle Wiggly T 
Wiggins Route T 
Winterlude T 
You Can't Chop This T 

The Nose 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 340'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 181
Submitted By: Tzilla Rapdrilla on Feb 8, 2013

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Begin just right of Wiggins Route & near a flat boulder.

Pitch 1 – 5.9 - Work your way up and somewhat rightward aiming for a left-facing corner above, at the end of the corner traverse right.

Pitch 2 – 5.10a – Ascend the right-facing book up through the major part of the wall above.

Pitch 3 – Generally follow the last pitch of The Dungeon.


This is just right of Wiggins Route on the southwest toe of the Parapet.


Gear to 6".

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