The Nose

This post was originally a comment in The Nose

What size and number of black dimondsd did u need

Well actually only part of the north side is closed. if it is the usual boundary then it is from glass menagerie to the rightand the nose area never clses for birds. Concerning your original post about rack for the nose. I usually lead the nose with a single rack up to 3bd with some doubles in the .75 and smaller to red c3.

• pink tricam * *pink tricam * *pink tricam *

I second the pink tricam idea...they're perfect for those eyebrows. You should be able to pick one (or a few) up at Looking Glass Outfitters at the entrance to the forest. And don't forget your double ropes (or at least a second rope)...unless you don't want to get back to your car on the same day. Every time I've been on the Nose, we've had to share rappels with folks that didn't heed that warning and thought they could rap off with just one.

Brad Caldwell wrote:...And don't forget your double ropes (or at least a second rope)...unless you don't want to get back to your car on the same day. Every time I've been on the Nose, we've had to share rappels with folks that didn't heed that warning and thought they could rap off with just one.

I dont get this. There are few things at the glass where you CAN get down with one rope. 2 is almost mandatory to rap.

Singles with doubles in small to medium. Tricams are fine but not needed on most looking glass routes (dont fret if you dont have them). You should stop by LGO anyways and say hi to Phil or Eric and ask for beta

rock_fencer wrote: I dont get this. There are few things at the glass where you CAN get down with one rope. 2 is almost mandatory to rap. Singles with doubles in small to medium. Tricams are fine but not needed on most looking glass routes (dont fret if you dont have them). You should stop by LGO anyways and say hi to Phil or Eric and ask for beta

This is spot on minus the tricam comment. What has gotten into you, T? I find black thru red tricams to be ESSENTIAL for happy climbing at Looking GLass.

Yo T...I was referring to the fact that it takes full rope length rappels to get down from the Nose itself (unless somebody has installed a few more rap stations since the last time I climbed it...which has been a few years ago). I've encountered other climbers almost every time I've been on the Nose that thought they could rap with 1 rope or walk off the toursit trail from the top...either way, they wouldn't have made it to their ride if we wouldn't of let them rap down off of our ropes. In fact twice we've had to help people that were rapping off the top on 1 rope and we're dangling at the end of their rope about 100 feet above the next rap station, shitting a brick because they couldn't figure out what to do. Other areas at LG have some 1 rope rappels but the Nose isn't really one of them. And tricams we're obviously made for eyebrows:)

It would be crazy to purchase multiple pink tricams just for the nose, unless you don't have any small cams. It protects fine with cams.

The Nose protects fine with cams, but the placements are better sometimes with tri-cams if you know how to place them correctly. The flaring nature of the eyebrows work well with the tri-cams. There are several routes where the only gear that will fit in certain spots is a tri-cam like Hidden Agenda, and many others around NC. There are a few spots on the Nose, where some smaller C3s/TCUs will be essential, like the crux of the 2nd pitch. So tri-cams do need to be supplemented with other gear. Doubles in tri-cams, especially with bolted belay is over-kill. Two ropes are almost always mandatory for Looking Glass. There are only a few routes that you can get down with one rope, and most of them are several grades harder than the Nose. The only thing that comes to mind that one rope is fine and 5.8 or below is P1 of Safari and the Left Up area.