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High up on The Nose. One of the many cracks that ...
The Nose is an excellent outing featuring lots of climbing on moderate rock. A great route to take kids / beginners on.
Start at the right side of Butt Wall. You'll see an obvious dike system leading up towards a large tree.
Pitch 1 (5.6). This is the crux - follow the dike. Adequate pro is available, but you can't always see it coming. The glacial polish adds some zest to the pitch. Pass a fixed pin and a bolted stance to the tree on a large ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.0). Work up easy rock, aiming for a small tree just to the right of an obvious dike system climbing the nose of the next tier.
Pitch 3 (5.6). Step up and left onto the dike. Clip a fixed pin and do a short crux at the initial bulge. Above, the climbing gets easier, but the pro is sparse. Work a bit right toward the next step. You could avoid this staying to the right. Belay at the end of your rope in a low angle area.
Pitch 4 (5.5). Climb up, aiming for an obvious crack at the left side of the steep area. Once up the crack, follow easy ground up and right towards trees.
You can unrope here and scramble the right side to the top or do an extra pitch.
Pitch 5: A final wall rises left of the big ledge atop P4. We shifted the belay to just left of a large tree and climbed a weakness on the right side of the step (5.8). Above, it's another 200' of 4th class to the summit.
Descend to the left.
Per BJ Sbarra: the best descent is to the East. From the summit, head north until you can pick up a faint trail that follows a mellow gully system through trees. Follow this around to the right, until you are heading east down a prominent gully (also low angled). From here, the way should be obvious, as the trail is fairly worn, with a few spots of downclimbing, and when you hit the aspen grove, make a hard right until you get the trail again.
A light rack will do.
Just a sweet crack!
First pitch of the Nose.
Tristan leading one of the easy pitches higher up ...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 of "The Nose".
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 of "The Nose".
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 of "The Nose" -- multiple options.
BETA PHOTO: The Nose route follows the red line, as seen from ...
|By Lynn S|
Aug 28, 2009
Very enjoyable route, first pitch will make anyone think with the famous Monitor polish.
From: Golden, CO
Sep 13, 2009
The crux is just before the end of P1 (right before the tree belay). It's a super insecure, unprotectable 10'-15' crux section that combines stemming, smearing, and crimping. It's polished and slippery - pretty scary for a new trad leader; the good news is you can clip an anchor just before the "business" starts (the pitch to the left ends a double length runner away). Perhaps with offsets nuts you could protect it, not sure.
I actually thought I was off route, it felt a lot harder than 5.6. There's a more straight forward looking crack just to the right (anyone know if that is the actual route)?
The rest of the route is pretty straight forward, more typical of the 5.6 rating.
|By Tony T.|
From: Denver, CO
Aug 26, 2010
What a fantastic climb! I'm an aspiring trad leader, and this was perfect. The third pitch was either really run out, or I was off route. Regardless, it was very easy 5th class.
A few things to note.
It is a south facing wall, so expect sun all day.
Also, the route is rather tricky to find, but basically the climber's trail that takes you to the base of the wall, takes you to a pretty big dihedral of sorts. Go far right from this. If you hike too far up, you actually end up in a grove of trees and skip the first pitch. There aren't very many pictures of this route, so try and find them, and BRING them! Route-finding skills are a must for this area.
There is the option to "walk" off from the right side after gaining the final big ledge/grove of trees just before the fifth pitch. However, the walk-off is steep at points and you can rappel past the steepest sections from a giant tree. Do this if you are not comfortable down-climbing high 4th/low 5th class 20 foot walls.
|By J tot|
From: Tempe, AZ
Oct 4, 2010
After the first pitch, I only felt like a needed to be roped up for two ten foot sections. Also, I second the route finding skills. The way I went it felt more like a bunch of fourth class.
|By Rich F.|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 8, 2011
My wife and I climbed this route in three long pitches that used almost all of our 70m rope. We could have done a fourth short pitch up the headwall at the top but just chose to take the 4th class option around to the right.
We followed the route shown in the attached pics. I agree with previous posters in that most of the route is low 5th class, but on the route we took (for the 1st pitch at least), there was at least a couple of insecure (slick/polished) 5.7 moves. So I'd call the first pitch 5.7.
The views are nice, the climbing is mellow -- but neither of us enjoyed the long, tedious downclimb back to the west.
|By BJ Sbarra|
From: Carbondale, CO
Aug 8, 2011
The best descent is to the East. From the summit, head north until you can pick up a faint trail that follows a mellow gully system through trees. Follow this around to the right, until you are heading east down a prominent gully (also low angled). From here, the way should be obvious, as the trail is fairly worn, with a few spots of downclimbing, and when you hit the aspen grove, make a hard right until you get the trail again.
|By Rich F.|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 9, 2011
Thanks, BJ. Good walk-off advice for future climbers. Wish we had known that so we would have turned right at the top, instead of left :-)