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Mark Willey moving past first crux.
Pitch 1: Climb low angled ground past numerous eyebrows to a ledge. 5.5, 90'
Pitch 2: Climb up to and then along the right angling ramp that is obvious from a distance. 5.8, 100'
Pitch 3: From the belay climb straight up the slab. Crux is early on. 5.8, 100'
Pitch 4: Climb straight up from the belay or alternately (what I did to bypass a slower party) traverse left onto easier slab. This route is winding and requires a lot more rope, but is significantly easier than the direct version.
This route was so much fun. The exposure is great and the rock is phenomenal.
From the end of the approach trail, head a little to the left and look for the pale right-angling ramp on the second pitch. Begin below the lower end of it.
Lots of small and medium cams, TCUs, tri-cams, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of runners and some good stiff shoes. It seems to me like there were bolt anchors at every belay. We rappelled the route Peregrine which is the next route right from the Nose.
C. Chaney beginning the rappel from the top of the...
Dave Pearson starting the crux
Dave seconding 3rd pitch of the nose
Dave Pearson topping out on the 4th pitch of the n...
Gearing up for the fourth and final pitch. Funny ...
Intrepid second Huong, ready to belay on P2.
The infamous Parking Lot. Mark Willey lays down an...
Mark Willey sinking into eyebrows on the last pitc...
From The Nose
Mike, with Brenna belaying, on the first pitch of ...
Mike in a sea of granite on pitch 2 of the Nose, L...
From the base of the Nose.
the second pitch.
starting off the second pitch on the nose
The parking lot area looking glass
the first pitch of the nose
start of pitch of three
|By Br'er Rabbit|
From: The Deeper South
Mar 29, 2007
Super fun. A light rack including the doubles of the pink and red tricams, TCUS favoring the small sizes, and nothing larger than a #2 C4 will easily see you to the top. All belays are bolted. Don't miss the P4 direct finish. Careful not to miss the set of rap rings below the 'Parking Lot'...makes for some difficulties.
From: Oakland Park, Florida
May 2, 2007
The North Carolina guide book calls this the most popular climb in the state. It seems everyone wants to climb this one. The 2nd pitch is the crux. This is protected by a "lost arrow" piton pounded downward. That's all you got til you reach the horizontal crack in the ramp. There are many ways to get up on the ramp. I've gone left and traversed, straight up from the piton and traversed or right and up (most difficult). This goes up to a bolted belay. Most of the pro is horizontal placements. If there is a line go do Sundial. It's just as good.
From: Decatur, GA
May 28, 2007
It's easy to see why this one is so popular, it's a stellar line. Though I enjoyed Sundial Crack, I think the Nose is more exciting and certainly more sustained -- few casual sections on this route. Speaking of which, don't let the 5.5 rating on P1 fool you, it's got some interesting moves on it. At the top, it was entertaining to run into people who had come up the hiking trail and were surprised to see us coming up the last pitch ("you mean you climbed all the way from the bottom?").
|By charlie collins|
Oct 12, 2008
if you have small cams you can place some good placements near the piton and one even above it
Dec 30, 2009
A few notes on the comments above. The crux is on the second pitch, but can be well protected with a pink tricam or yellow metolius tcu or equivalent. The placement is polished but solid, and is literally right before the move. I rarely even clip the piton mentioned above. Also, I place a #3 Camalot on the 1st pitch, so you can bring one if you like.
The 1st pitch is rated 5.5, but doesn't feel any easier than the 5.7 4th pitch. I am not sure if this is because the 4th pitch is as easy, or if it is because after climbing the previous 3 pitches you have just gotten used to the style of climbing. 4th pitch is a little ran out, the rest of the route can be sewn up. The traverse off the anchors of pitch 3 can be a little tricky to protect depending on how you go, I usually find myself above the best eyebrows for gear and have to make blind placements to protect the second. Great route, and definitely worth your time. Route is in the sun from around noon til dusk, and is completely shaded in the morning.
Jul 27, 2010
Make sure to read how long the pitches are. I think you need a 70 or two ropes to get down.
From the top of the last pitch you need a 70 to get to the next rap rings.
|By Brad Caldwell|
From: Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Jul 29, 2010
I'd advise double ropes at the Glass, if not, you might be taking the LONG way (8 miles or so) around to get back to your car!
From: Hendersonville, NC
Sep 2, 2012
crux is early on both 2nd and 3rd pitch. fun climb
|By Mike Holley|
From: Boone, NC
Sep 8, 2012
Very Fun Route!! The Second Pitch is the Money, but the entire thing is very fun!! Good warm up for Peregrine and Sundial. Classic for its name sake, but if you are limited on time or the site is busy, as it often is, go for Sundial as a premium alternative!!
|By Cody Ashe|
Apr 2, 2013
Well I was out on the nose this past Saturday and climbed the first two pitches. I just went back through my gear and cannot find my shoes. I know there was a guide there the day I was wondering if anyone had picked them up. There should of been a red chalk bag with the la sportiva shoes.