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Nose Area
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The Nose 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Steve Longenecker, Bob Watts, Bob Gillespie - 1966
Page Views: 22,992
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 16, 2006

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Mark Willey sinking into eyebrows on the last pitc...

Description 

Pitch 1: Climb low angled ground past numerous eyebrows to a ledge. 5.5, 90'

Pitch 2: Climb up to and then along the right angling ramp that is obvious from a distance. 5.8, 100'

Pitch 3: From the belay climb straight up the slab. Crux is early on. 5.8, 100'

Pitch 4: Climb straight up from the belay or alternately (what I did to bypass a slower party) traverse left onto easier slab. This route is winding and requires a lot more rope, but is significantly easier than the direct version.

This route was so much fun. The exposure is great and the rock is phenomenal.


Location 

From the end of the approach trail, head a little to the left and look for the pale right-angling ramp on the second pitch. Begin below the lower end of it.


Protection 

Lots of small and medium cams, TCUs, tri-cams, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of runners and some good stiff shoes. It seems to me like there were bolt anchors at every belay. We rappelled the route Peregrine which is the next route right from the Nose.



Photos of The Nose Slideshow Add Photo
The infamous Parking Lot. Mark Willey lays down and takes a nap before tackling the last pitch.
The infamous Parking Lot. Mark Willey lays down an...
Gearing up for the fourth and final pitch.  Funny how much easier it is to see the water streak in the photo than it was at the time.  Photo by Huong.
Gearing up for the fourth and final pitch. Funny ...
From the base of the Nose.
From the base of the Nose.
Intrepid second Huong, ready to belay on P2.
Intrepid second Huong, ready to belay on P2.
Dave Pearson starting the crux
Dave Pearson starting the crux
Dave seconding 3rd pitch of the nose
Dave seconding 3rd pitch of the nose
Looking down on the third pitch... pretty sure I was off route
Looking down on the third pitch... pretty sure I w...
the second pitch.
the second pitch.
Second Pitch of The Nose
Second Pitch of The Nose
Dave Pearson topping out on the 4th pitch of the nose. ca 9/17/05
Dave Pearson topping out on the 4th pitch of the n...
Mark Willey moving past first crux.
Mark Willey moving past first crux.
The parking lot area looking glass
The parking lot area looking glass
C. Chaney beginning the rappel from the top of the Nose.
C. Chaney beginning the rappel from the top of the...
starting off the second pitch on the nose
starting off the second pitch on the nose
start of pitch of three
start of pitch of three
the first pitch of the nose
the first pitch of the nose
From The Nose
From The Nose
P2 Nose
P2 Nose
Mike, with Brenna belaying, on the first pitch of the Nose, LG, NC.
Mike, with Brenna belaying, on the first pitch of ...
Top of The Nose with my climbing partner
Top of The Nose with my climbing partner
Mike in a sea of granite on pitch 2 of the Nose, LG, NC.
Mike in a sea of granite on pitch 2 of the Nose, L...
Stoked to start pitch 2
Stoked to start pitch 2
Comments on The Nose Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 2, 2014
By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Briar Patch
Mar 29, 2007

Super fun. A light rack including the doubles of the pink and red tricams, TCUS favoring the small sizes, and nothing larger than a #2 C4 will easily see you to the top. All belays are bolted. Don't miss the P4 direct finish. Careful not to miss the set of rap rings below the 'Parking Lot'...makes for some difficulties.

By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
May 2, 2007

The North Carolina guide book calls this the most popular climb in the state. It seems everyone wants to climb this one. The 2nd pitch is the crux. This is protected by a "lost arrow" piton pounded downward. That's all you got til you reach the horizontal crack in the ramp. There are many ways to get up on the ramp. I've gone left and traversed, straight up from the piton and traversed or right and up (most difficult). This goes up to a bolted belay. Most of the pro is horizontal placements. If there is a line go do Sundial. It's just as good.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
May 28, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It's easy to see why this one is so popular, it's a stellar line. Though I enjoyed Sundial Crack, I think the Nose is more exciting and certainly more sustained -- few casual sections on this route. Speaking of which, don't let the 5.5 rating on P1 fool you, it's got some interesting moves on it. At the top, it was entertaining to run into people who had come up the hiking trail and were surprised to see us coming up the last pitch ("you mean you climbed all the way from the bottom?").

By charlie collins
Oct 12, 2008

if you have small cams you can place some good placements near the piton and one even above it

By ziggy
Dec 30, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A few notes on the comments above. The crux is on the second pitch, but can be well protected with a pink tricam or yellow metolius tcu or equivalent. The placement is polished but solid, and is literally right before the move. I rarely even clip the piton mentioned above. Also, I place a #3 Camalot on the 1st pitch, so you can bring one if you like.

The 1st pitch is rated 5.5, but doesn't feel any easier than the 5.7 4th pitch. I am not sure if this is because the 4th pitch is as easy, or if it is because after climbing the previous 3 pitches you have just gotten used to the style of climbing. 4th pitch is a little ran out, the rest of the route can be sewn up. The traverse off the anchors of pitch 3 can be a little tricky to protect depending on how you go, I usually find myself above the best eyebrows for gear and have to make blind placements to protect the second. Great route, and definitely worth your time. Route is in the sun from around noon til dusk, and is completely shaded in the morning.

By dameeser
From: denver
Jul 27, 2010

Make sure to read how long the pitches are. I think you need a 70 or two ropes to get down.

From the top of the last pitch you need a 70 to get to the next rap rings.

By Brad Caldwell
From: Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Jul 29, 2010

I'd advise double ropes at the Glass, if not, you might be taking the LONG way (8 miles or so) around to get back to your car!

By photocodo
From: Hendersonville, NC
Sep 2, 2012

crux is early on both 2nd and 3rd pitch. fun climb

By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Sep 8, 2012

Very Fun Route!! The Second Pitch is the Money, but the entire thing is very fun!! Good warm up for Peregrine and Sundial. Classic for its name sake, but if you are limited on time or the site is busy, as it often is, go for Sundial as a premium alternative!!

By Cody Ashe
Apr 2, 2013

Well I was out on the nose this past Saturday and climbed the first two pitches. I just went back through my gear and cannot find my shoes. I know there was a guide there the day I was wondering if anyone had picked them up. There should of been a red chalk bag with the la sportiva shoes.

By Nathan Burns
From: Dahlonega, GA
Dec 30, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route, super fun day! It was 23 degrees (friction!!!)

By Reed Gustavsen
From: Van Life, USA
Jan 1, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Such a fun climb! Could be as safe or sketch as you want. I'd bring 2 sets of TCUs because there is such good pro options... eats through your small cams! Oh and nuts aren't a must in my opinion. Really, after placing some pro turn around and enjoy that view!

Me and my climbing partner Gabe on top of Looking Glass first day of the New Year!
Me and my climbing partner Gabe on top of Looking Glass first day of the New Year!

By Tim Reddy
Mar 10, 2014

Linked P1 and P2 with a 60 for a fun pitch. Then ended up bailing because hikers up top decided it would be fun to start throwing things off the top. What we thought was a bunch of rockfall ended up being the leftovers of their lunch, including two very large half-eaten apples in a harris teeter bag, another apple, a bagel, and a half-full plastic drink bottle.

Are there any signs up top telling hikers not to throw things? If not, there should be.

By b.t.miller
From: Charlotte, NC
Mar 12, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Adding to Tim's comment-- we picked up those half eaten bagels and did our best to at least throw the exploded apple into the woods on Sunday afternoon.

Great route but we felt like P1 and P2 wondered a fair bit. Take some 4' slings for sure if you plan to protect when protection is afforded to you; otherwise you're in for some solid drag.

P2-- pink tricam under crux is as bomber as it gets. Beautiful placement. That being said, we did chose the direct ascent onto the dike (fixed pin will be to climber's left). In other words, we climbed the obvious flake to climber's right off of P1 belay, and then straight up into the dike. You'll see an obvious little knob in the crux that is perfect for a right pull. So feet are on nothing great and one hand to pull (right hand just smears nearly vertical face). Felt like a fair bit more than a 5.8 move. After reading comments here, it sounds like the path of least resistance is both left and right of the "direct into dike" approach.

NOTE: if you want to do this route in solitude, go on a week day (we climbed it on Tuesday). Really does add to the experience

By Tyler Phillips
Apr 2, 2014

I agree with ziggy. 5.5 P1 doesn't feel any easier than the 5.7 P4, and even a fair amount on the last part of P3. Maybe you finally get the hang of eyebrow climbing?

Super fun climb.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
May 20, 2014

Is it possible to rap the Nose with a single 70M cord? It would appear so from the description.

By TJ Souther
From: Brevard, NC
Aug 2, 2014

What an awesome route, tricky move at the piton felt much more tame than last time I climbed it due to cooler temperatures and better friction, the route takes plenty of gear (double .5, .75 and tcu's especially helpful). I ended up building a gear belay in an eyebrow in the parking lot rather than using the old eyebolts for a more comfortable stance. Pitches 3 and 4 were super fun and I felt that pitch 4 was actually easier than the first pitch.