The Nose 

Super fun. A light rack including the doubles of the pink and red tricams, TCUS favoring the small sizes, and nothing larger than a #2 C4 will easily see you to the top. All belays are bolted. Don't miss the P4 direct finish. Careful not to miss the set of rap rings below the 'Parking Lot'...makes for some difficulties.

The North Carolina guide book calls this the most popular climb in the state. It seems everyone wants to climb this one. The 2nd pitch is the crux. This is protected by a "lost arrow" piton pounded downward. That's all you got til you reach the horizontal crack in the ramp. There are many ways to get up on the ramp. I've gone left and traversed, straight up from the piton and traversed or right and up (most difficult). This goes up to a bolted belay. Most of the pro is horizontal placements. If there is a line go do Sundial. It's just as good.

It's easy to see why this one is so popular, it's a stellar line. Though I enjoyed Sundial Crack, I think the Nose is more exciting and certainly more sustained -- few casual sections on this route. Speaking of which, don't let the 5.5 rating on P1 fool you, it's got some interesting moves on it. At the top, it was entertaining to run into people who had come up the hiking trail and were surprised to see us coming up the last pitch ("you mean you climbed all the way from the bottom?").

if you have small cams you can place some good placements near the piton and one even above it

A few notes on the comments above. The crux is on the second pitch, but can be well protected with a pink tricam or yellow metolius tcu or equivalent. The placement is polished but solid, and is literally right before the move. I rarely even clip the piton mentioned above. Also, I place a #3 Camalot on the 1st pitch, so you can bring one if you like.

The 1st pitch is rated 5.5, but doesn't feel any easier than the 5.7 4th pitch. I am not sure if this is because the 4th pitch is as easy, or if it is because after climbing the previous 3 pitches you have just gotten used to the style of climbing. 4th pitch is a little ran out, the rest of the route can be sewn up. The traverse off the anchors of pitch 3 can be a little tricky to protect depending on how you go, I usually find myself above the best eyebrows for gear and have to make blind placements to protect the second. Great route, and definitely worth your time. Route is in the sun from around noon til dusk, and is completely shaded in the morning.

Make sure to read how long the pitches are. I think you need a 70 or two ropes to get down.

From the top of the last pitch you need a 70 to get to the next rap rings.

I'd advise double ropes at the Glass, if not, you might be taking the LONG way (8 miles or so) around to get back to your car!

crux is early on both 2nd and 3rd pitch. fun climb

Very Fun Route!! The Second Pitch is the Money, but the entire thing is very fun!! Good warm up for Peregrine and Sundial. Classic for its name sake, but if you are limited on time or the site is busy, as it often is, go for Sundial as a premium alternative!!

Well I was out on the nose this past Saturday and climbed the first two pitches. I just went back through my gear and cannot find my shoes. I know there was a guide there the day I was wondering if anyone had picked them up. There should of been a red chalk bag with the la sportiva shoes.