Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel T 
Canary T 
Cat Burglar T 
Century T 
Crack of Doom T 
Damnation Crack T 
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 
Das Musak S 
Devil's Fright T 
Hangdog T,TR 
Lucky Charms T 
MF Direct T 
MF Overhang T 
Midway T 
Midway Direct T 
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 
Old Gray Mare T 
Orange Peel T 
Rainbow Connection T,TR 
Rainshadow Direct S 
Saber T 
Saints T 
Satanic Verses T 
Slim Pickins T 
South Face, Jello Tower T 
Winter Solstice T 

The Nose, of Jello Tower 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, Ed Cooper, Don Gorden 1950
Season: Spring through Fall
Page Views: 1,807
Submitted By: Karsten on Mar 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>


This steep classic has been challenging climbers for decades. Solid rock and the unique features of the Jello Tower combine to make a stout climb. The pro is good but you'll struggle to get it as you forearms pump up. A combination of crack and face moves lead to the top of the tower.


The route ascends the middle of the southwest face of Jello Tower.


Regular rack to #2 camalot.
Bolted anchors on top

Comments on The Nose, of Jello Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By Shaun Johnson
May 2, 2013

A new anchor has been placed on top of The Nose and The South Face of Jello Tower.
This makes it easier to repelle off Jello Tower when other groups are on Midway.
By Thad Arnold
From: Oregon
May 23, 2013

I was really impressed with this route. Super fun and good gear.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I think it's worth remembering that Mead Hargis made the first free ascent of this.
Shaun, thanks for the anchor. One of the nuts was loose and hanger spinning, hand tight, but no wrench on me.- 5/26/14

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!