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The Nose in Mid September-Crowds?

Original Post
Anthony Stout · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 4,425

From what I can tell, this route is consistently crowded. How about in Mid September? Am I asking to fight for bivies if I decide to go then? Or, is it a good time to climb it?

Thanks.

Tico · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0

Give yourself enough time to find a window, and you might have the route to yourself. Last time I was on the nose (june 06) we were the only party on it. The hotter it is, the more water most people will bring, so their bags are too heavy and they bail. So a hot mid-week blast-off in Sept. might not be too bad. Buy Hans' CD, it has a bunch of good beta on non-obvious bivy spots.

George Bell · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 5,050

Check out my trip report on climbing the route in mid-September, 1996.

Anthony Stout · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 4,425

George, I actually read your trip report last night. It was discouraging to say the least. And that was 1996, I wonder if more people are climbing it now?

I guess I can always show up in Yosemite with a backup plan if there is a long line at the base (It's not as if there is a shortage of things to do there).

Thanks guys.

Karsten Duncan · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,571

Take or borrow a ledge and you won't have a problem. I would say the crowds will be there in Sept. but you just have to get in line and push through. As stated above there will be alot of bailing on sickle ledge and through the stovelegs. Once your past El Cap tower you'll probably be ok. Still, I would bring a ledge.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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