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The Nose  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown, Joe Cote?
Page Views: 565
Submitted By: WillCarey on Jan 12, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: A climber midway on The Nose (5.8).


The obvious rounded arete that forms the center divider for the cliff.
Mostly if not all fixed gear (bolts and pins)


Center of the cliff.
Starts off of the upper launch pad.


Bolts and Pins
Maybe a few pieces?

Photos of The Nose Slideshow Add Photo
bring a .5 for the last horizontal
bring a .5 for the last horizontal
Comments on The Nose Add Comment
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By JChepes
From: Chocorua, NH
Sep 16, 2012

Yes! This felt 5.8 to me. Always thought this was 5.6 and was like damn! Beautiful route!

By burlap submariner
Sep 16, 2012

that's what todd swain's old guide said as well, I dont buy it, the moves just getting to the first piece of gear are 5.7R at best, the crux is an awkward step up at the second bolt, beautiful route in a great setting.

By chinos
Sep 18, 2012

i agree with burlap, no 5.6! maybe i was climbing the route wrong but it felt all of 5.8 to me...

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 20, 2012

I'll back up that every inch of an .8.

By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
May 9, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

My first 5.8 trad lead, without me even knowing it! I always knew it was stiff, but didn't give it much thought.

Fun route, the bottom can be semi-protected by a red tri-cam in the flaring flake. After a few moves you can lean left and place a small C4 or TCU in a good flake. Maybe not R, but also not your standard protected route.