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The Northern End

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anorexic Doughboy T 
Bedside Manner T 
Beer Float, The T 
Desperado T 
Girls with Chim(n)ay T 
Gods Must Be Angry, The T 
Great Googlie Moogli T 
Lively Up Yourself T 
Plumbline T 
Rodeo Crack T 
Route 66 T 
Salad Daze T 
Shasta T 
Sleepy Hallow T 
T-Handles T 
Talkin' It Clean T 
Usual Suspects T 
Where's Noah Vibbert T 
Wiggle Room, The T 

The Northern End Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 8,287
Administrators: Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Aug 2, 2009  with updates from littleman and 1 more
Thanksgiving Day

28° | 13°

27° | 12°

27° | 17°

35° | 20°

35° | 24°

35° | 28°
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Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>


The northern end is home to Trout's lower-angled, easier cracks. This is an excellent place to bring newcomers who aren't going to have fun on 5.10 cracks.

Getting There 

Take the new trail that leaves the river after passing a bench on the right and after the river road jogs around a small berm. This trail was put in so that folks looking for 5.8-5.9 cracks wouldn't have to go the long way around and boulder hop across the whole main wall to and from the Northern End.

Climbing Season

Weather station 9.6 miles from here

19 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Northern End

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Northern End:
Route 66   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Shasta   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 75'   
Anorexic Doughboy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Great Googlie Moogli   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Usual Suspects   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 75'   
T-Handles   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 65'   
Bedside Manner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Beer Float   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 65'   
Salad Daze   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Talkin' It Clean   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Wiggle Room   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Lively Up Yourself   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Sleepy Hallow   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Gods Must Be Angry   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Rodeo Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   
Desperado   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Northern End

Featured Route For The Northern End
Rock Climbing Photo: JP on Talkin' it Clean

Talkin' It Clean 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  OR : Central Oregon : ... : The Northern End
Climb a sustained thin hand crack as it narrows to fingers. Enjoy a rest before fun finishing moves. The relatively clean rock, for the Northern End, make this a great route that's well worth it. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of The Northern End Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Girls with Chim(n)ay
Girls with Chim(n)ay

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