This crag as well as all the Black Jack boulders west of and including the Moat Boulder are on private property. The owner is climber friendly, but obviously visitors should be on their best guest behavior. Keep your voices down, don't leave trash, old tarps or wood pallets under the boulders. Particularly, do not bellow profanities. The noise carries right down to his house which is below the crag and can be quite tiresome. This is his property and you are on it at his discretion.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
The farthest crag west at rumney this crag sees little attention due to its distant location (though it is only a 20 min walk for the motivated climber) and unfortunate majority of poor quality routes... There are however a few nice routes thrown in between and a crack gem up the hill. As of the latest guide book climbs here range from moderate (5.8) to hard (5.12). There has been some retro bolting happening out here perhaps to make routes more appealing to the masses but there is still something missing from what looks like a crag with great potential. Perhaps we should count our selves lucky that it is a distant crag that was picked for this ill fate.
Hike through the Blackjack Boulder and just keep going out the other end. The trail has gotten better over the years and should be easy enough to follow.
I'm trying to picture the route clean and dry to find it more appealing. But that's not how I experienced it, and that's the typical state of it. But here's how it is.Behind a big boulder leaning on a tree find a mossy, normally wet corner with two visible bolts on a slightly steep face. Climb the corner laying back crimping and stemming. The crux is pulling out of the corner on to a slab. It's pretty tough. I ended up with a finger lock and a handjam when pulling the crux bulge. After pulling t...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Apr 27, 2014 CONDITION REPORT
just got a report of some pretty large rock fall happening here at the moment... be careful if you are out that way... If anyone can investigate safely to see if it has effected the climbs please report back...
Out of curiosity I hiked up here this morning and it looks like the reported rock fall was somebody trundling some rock to the left of B-b-buttress setting up a new route following a large flake and up a crack through the headwall above.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Apr 28, 2014 CONDITION REPORT
Yup, new route cleaning and removal of fallen trees.
Edit - That was the weekend before. I was not there this weekend, so am not aware of new activity. Natural or trundled? Was it actually anywhere near anybody, or just heard in the distance?
Yikes. I was on my way over to the trail when I got a text mentioning the fall (trundle) warning me to probably just avoid the area. We did. I'm glad we stopped for coffee on the way up or we could have been front and center. :X Sure it was overcast with drizzle off and on... but Sunday at 2pm is a tricky time to send shit down the hillside.
If you're into slugs (like... REALLY into them), you should take a hike out here on a rainy day.
There are many bolted routes out here now. I wish I had a classic guide book... or knew what the dry, slug-filled route I got tossed off the other day was: Slightly technical start for the first bolt, working a hand/finger crack to gain the dihedral. After that it looks like it might be a fun face climb til anchors that were out of sight. Any ideas?
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Nov 30, 2011
im am not in to slugs (like... not at all) but i do like the route jeff is referring to, Hard Times 5.11c...
I think I got on "The Angry Itch" here the other day. Is it four bolts long and with a very hard crux near the top involving micro crimps and/or a big sloper/arete? Really fun start and then got absolutely shut down at the top.