short stemming section with tight hands at the end...
The dark, north facing section of the Chief left of Angel's Crest and the North North Gully holds some of the area's hardest, purest and longest free climbs. Testpieces like Alaska Highway and The Calling make this the realm of the honed. Some slightly more accessible pitches can be found along with some single pitches routes.
The wall is split horizontally at mid-height by the Zodiac ledge, which can be reached by any of the long routes that start from the ground, or by scrambling up from the far left side.
The north facing aspect can make this a cool place in the heat, but also makes it slower to dry and shortens the spring and fall season compared to the rest of the chief. Expect a little extra dirt and munge than other areas on The Chief.
Approach as for Angel's Crest
, but once at the base, head up the gully a touch further until you are on a very flat boulder with a cairn indicating a rough trail that heads left under the wall. This area isn't well traveled so the trails are rough and prone to overgrow or be hidden by seasonal debris.
Weather station 1.5 miles from here
14 Total Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The North Walls
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The North Walls:
New Life 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 5 pitches, 350'
Astrologger 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Polaris 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 10 pitches, 1100'
The Calling 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 6 pitches, 600'
North Star 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For The North Walls
The Calling 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a North America
: ... : The North Walls
The Calling boasts one of the best splitter dihedral cracks in Squamish. You can get there by climbing Alaska Highway to Astro Ledge then traversing left 30' or by taking Astro Ledge instead of climbing AK Hwy. If you only climbed P1 - 3, this would be an absolute 5 star classic. The pitches above are dirty and chossy and detract.P1 (11d): Starting from Astro Ledge at a two bolt anchor go up the obvious corner with a hard move off the ledge. Mostly bolted and past fixed pins/wires, plus a small ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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