The north walls of the Chief
The dark, north facing section of the Chief left of Angel's Crest and the North North Gully holds some of the area's hardest, purest and longest free climbs. Testpieces like Alaska Highway and The Calling make this the realm of the honed. Some slightly more accessible pitches can be found along with some single pitches routes.
The wall is split horizontally at mid-height by the Zodiac ledge, which can be reached by any of the long routes that start from the ground, or by scrambling up from the far left side.
The north facing aspect can make this a cool place in the heat, but also makes it slower to dry and shortens the spring and fall season compared to the rest of the chief. Expect a little extra dirt and munge than other areas on The Chief.
Approach as for Angel's Crest
, but once at the base, head up the gully a touch further until you are on a very flat boulder with a cairn indicating a rough trail that heads left under the wall. This area isn't well traveled so the trails are rough and prone to overgrow or be hidden by seasonal debris.
Weather station 1.5 miles from here
14 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The North Walls
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The North Walls:
New Life 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 5 pitches, 350'
Astrologger 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Polaris 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 10 pitches, 1100'
The Calling 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 6 pitches, 600'
North Star 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For The North Walls
Polaris 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a North America
: ... : The North Walls
POLARIS5.12a (5.11b, A0) 10pFA Kris Wild, Reuben Shelton, August 6, 2007Approach: As for Angel's Crest. 200m up from the entrance to the North Gully. (100m uphill from the "tree start" to Angel's Crest) It's on the left and it's the only corner.Gear: One set nuts, double set cams up to #2 camalot size, one #3 and 3.5P1. Up right facing corner, past ledge (old belay) up the next corner through roof and out right to belay. 5.10b, 50m (This pitch was originally Nostromo, 5.6, A2, John M...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Apr 21, 2015
There was a large rockfall on April 19th 2015 from the top of Chilkoot Pass which destroyed the upper sections of routes from The Calling to Yukon Gold. Debris spread across the base and totally destroyed an area stretching from Parallel Passages to the Angels Crest trail. Best to avoid the whole area for now until things stabilize.