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The North Walls

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alaska Highway T 
Astrologger T 
Blood Meridian T 
Calling, The T 
Chilkoot Pass T 
Gone Surfin' T 
High Plains Drifter T 
New Life T 
NORTH NORTH ARETE T 
North Star T 
Parallel Passages T 
Polaris T 
Public Image T 
Yukon Gold T 
Unsorted Routes:

The North Walls 


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Location: 49.6876, -123.1352 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 33,017
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Jun 30, 2008
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short stemming section with tight hands at the end...

Description 

The dark, north facing section of the Chief left of Angel's Crest and the North North Gully holds some of the area's hardest, purest and longest free climbs. Testpieces like Alaska Highway and The Calling make this the realm of the honed. Some slightly more accessible pitches can be found along with some single pitches routes.

The wall is split horizontally at mid-height by the Zodiac ledge, which can be reached by any of the long routes that start from the ground, or by scrambling up from the far left side.

The north facing aspect can make this a cool place in the heat, but also makes it slower to dry and shortens the spring and fall season compared to the rest of the chief. Expect a little extra dirt and munge than other areas on The Chief.


Getting There 

Approach as for Angel's Crest, but once at the base, head up the gully a touch further until you are on a very flat boulder with a cairn indicating a rough trail that heads left under the wall. This area isn't well traveled so the trails are rough and prone to overgrow or be hidden by seasonal debris.


Climbing Season


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',7],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The North Walls:
Parallel Passages   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'   
New Life   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 350'   
High Plains Drifter   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Astrologger   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Alaska Highway   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, 5 pitches, 550'   
Polaris   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 10 pitches, 1100'   
The Calling   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
North Star   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in The North Walls

Featured Route For The North Walls
Tony working hard on Astrologger.

Astrologger 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  North America : Canada : ... : The North Walls
"I hope you ate your Wheaties" (TM).Astrologger is on good rock and is an attractive line, but the necessary difficulty in getting to it and its lonely position mean that it is seldom traveled. If you could climb the top alone, or the route had been cleaner, I would have given this 3 or 4 stars. As well, its given grade of 11b is way out of line with other local grades and is sandbagged sufficiently so as to be hard on the Ego.To avoid an awkward scramble, we elected to lead up the "approach pit...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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