The North Ridge  5.4 R

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Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.4 [details] FA:  Unknown - (Antique Lost Arrow 1/3 of the way up.) Season:  Autumn: Faces North + Feb-July closure Submitted By:  Tony B on Oct 19, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Linz and Jason approach the summit of the lonely S...

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Description 

This formation's/climb's total lack of traffic and NE exposure shadowed by Dinosaur Mt. to the South and the Dreadnaught to the East means that it has plenty of lichen and a little friable rock. Solitude is virtually assured but so are some challenges that are not common on 5.4 territory. While this is an easy climb, it is for more seasoned climbers.

It has its merits and rewards, but set expectations low relative to the classics.

Location 

This route starts up a few meters South (left and above) of the very base of the North Ridge formation. The formation may strangely named, considering it actually forms the NW shoulder of the Dinosaur Mountain and comes out of the South end of the approach canyon.

Start up there and pick and choose carefully a line past many false summits up and onward S/SW to the very peak of all of Dinosaur Mt. Any further description would be difficult, and unneeded for suitors capable of the adventurous nature of this route anyway.

Protection 

I have NOT lead this climb, I have only soloed it. That said, a standard light rack with lots of long runners and a 60m or 70m rope should suffice to protect the climb as well as it can be protected. Gear will be only occasional and a fall ill advised, as is true for much of the less traveled flatiron territory.

Photos of The North Ridge Slideshow

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Lindsay and Jason a few hundred feet up the North ...

About 1/2 way up the North Ridge of Dinosaur Mt, t...