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The North Gym

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 
Apogee Pending S 
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 
Flamingo Lane S 
Full Retard S 
Here We Go Again... Again. S 
Lead Farmer S 
Logan's Run S 
Long Black Veil S 
Observe God's Mistake S 
Pimp's Main Prophet S 
Power Milk & Bagels S 
Power Thirteen S 
Rum- Tum- Tuggernaughts S 
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 
Spitting Image S 
Teenage Prostitutes S 
That's What She Said S 
Unknown 1 S 
Unknown 3 S 
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 

The North Gym 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,100'
Location: 38.6395, -105.215 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,088
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 15, 2011
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Teenage Prostitutes Area (the northern half of The...

Description 

"The North Gym" is a generic name for the section of cliff that extends from the north end of The Gym to the south/east end of The North End. The cliffline faces more or less east, but the southern end (aka "The Arcade") faces slightly south and is less vegetated, so it tends to be much warmer than the mid-section ("Teenage Prostitutes Area") that sees little sun, making this cliff a great destination for those days in which you want morning sun but evening shade. There are currently only a handful of routes here, but they are all high quality, with several among the best of their respective grades at Shelf. The unique features found on this cliffline provide the potential for many more memorable routes should someone find the desire to put them up. There are few moderates (though Power Milk & Bagels is surely among the best 5.10's at Shelf), but many great lines in the 5.11/12 range, including one of Shelf's best 12a's, Who Left The Fridge Open?, and currently Shelf's hardest route, Apogee Pending.

This was one of the very first cliffs at Shelf to be developed. The route Teenage Prostitutes was established in October 1985 by Neil Canon, Bob Robertson & Rich Aschert. The ascent was done ground-up and included the use of at least one piton (and a star-drive), which is still in-situ to this day. For whatever reason, only five or so more routes were put in before local activists turned their attention to other cliffs. Another five routes were installed by unknown parties in the ensuing 20 or so years, before the 2011 surge in development.

Many of the routes here have high first bolts. A stick clip is highly recommended.


Routes L --> R: 

"The Arcade":
1. "Tommy" (Unnamed), 5.11, 5 red bolts, 2 RBA.
2. "Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed), 5.11, 6 red bolts, 2 RBA.
3. Power Milk & Bagels, 5.10-, 8 red bolts, 2 RBA.

Short Break

4. Closed Project, ?, ~7 bolts, no anchor.

Short Break

"Tropical Wall":
5. Observe God's Mistake, 5.10, 6 bolts, 2 BA (shared with next route).
6. Lead Farmer, Direct start to OGM, 5.12, 4 bolts, plus last 2 bolts of OGM, Shared 2 BA.
7. Closed Project, ?, ~5 bolts, 2BA.
8. Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts, 5.11-, 7 bolts, 2 BA.
9. Here We Go Again... Again., 5.12, 5 bolts, 2 BA.
10. Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo, 5.10, 5 bolts, 2 BA.
11. Full Retard, extension to "Earth Mama's" through steep bulge, 5.13-, 2 bolts, no anchor.
12. Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown, 5.11-, 5 bolts 2 BA.
13. Who Left the Fridge Open?, 5.12-, 6 bolts, 2 BA.

Long Break

Gully

Approach Trail

"Teenage Prostitutes Area":
14. Unknown 1, 5.11-, ~9 bolts, 2 BA.
15. That's What She Said, 5.12+, 5 bolts, 2 BA (shared with previous route).
16. Power Thirteen, 5.13-, 6 bolts, 2 BA (shared with previous route).
17. Apogee Pending, 5.14-, 6 bolts, 2 BA.
18. Long Black Veil, 5.12, 6 bolts, 2 BA.
19. Flamingo Lane, 5.10+, 4 bolts, 2 BA.
20. Logan's Run, 5.12-, 4 bolts, 2 BA.

Short Break

21. "40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown), 5.11, 4 bolts, 2 BA.
22. "Black Crack" (Name Unknown), 5.9, 6 bolts, 2 BA, higher 2 BA.
23. Teenage Prostitutes, 5.12-, 8 bolts, piton, 2 BA.
24. Pimp's Main Prophet, 5.13, 5 bolts, 2 BA.

Short Break

"The Cirque":
25. Unknown #2, ?, 2 bolts + gear?, 3BA with long chains
26. Unknown 3, 5.10-, 5 bolts, 2BA shared with next route.
27. Spitting Image, 5.13-, 5 bolts, 2BA shared with previous route.

Long Break

28. Unknown #4 Rt Face of High Dihedral, ?, ? bolts, anchor?


Getting There 

Despite its obscure location, this cliff ironically has one of the shortest approaches at Shelf, due to the re-routing of the Cactus/Spiney/Gym approach.

Drive ~1.4 miles north from the (now-gated) Cactus Cliff Access Road, to a small pullout (also 0.8 miles south from the river crossing at The North End P-lot). At this pull-out, you should be more or less directly below the obvious, overhanging dihedral of "Apogee Pending". Drop off all your gear & passengers, then drive North 0.8 miles to The North End Parking (pull out on the left/west side of the road, just before the river crossing), park here, and shuffle back down the road to the drop-off point.

A steep trail heads south up the road cut, and continues south for another 30 yards or so, then begins to switch-back up the hill towards "Apogee Pending". Follow cairns, up a gully with loose red stones, past some cactus, then weaving through scattered pinon pines to the cliff base. The approach time is ~5 minutes from the road. Once at the cliff-base trail, head left for "The Arcade", and right for "Teenage Prostitutes Area" and beyond.

Alternatively, approach as for The Gym, but continue north along the cliffline for another 5 minutes or so past The Green Bonus & Bone 'n' Vein to arrive at the south end of "The Arcade". There is not much of a trail along this section of cliff, so travel with packs may be difficult.


Climbing Season


24 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',6],['5.12',7],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The North Gym:
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Who Left the Fridge Open?   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in The North Gym

Featured Route For The North Gym
Entering the first crux.

Apogee Pending 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a  CO : Shelf Road : The North Gym
Apogee Pending climbs the directissima up Shelf Road's most continuously steep panel of rock. Unfortunately, a no-hands rest at mid-height detracts from the continuity of the line, but the upper half features 25-30 moves of brutal cranks and sustained, pumpy climbing. The route offers a wee bit of techno-piss, wild dynos, leg threads, tweaky pockets, and a sting in the tail on outstanding cream, pink, & black stone. This wall faces north and receives no sun whatsoever. Stick clip the first bo...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The North Gym Slideshow Add Photo
Unknown #4, at the far north end of the Teenage Prostitutes Area, climbs the right face of the dihedral.
Unknown #4, at the far north end of the Teen...
Another view of The Tropical Wall: <br /> <br />1. Observe God's Mistake. <br />2. Lead Farmer. <br />3. Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts. <br />4. Here We Go Again....  Again. <br />5. Earth Mama... <br />6. Full Retard. <br />7. Scorcher VI. <br />8. Who Left the Fridge Open? <br />
Another view of The Tropical Wall:

1. Observe God...
The original Teenage Prostitutes Area.  Routes shown from L -> R: <br /> <br />1. "40 Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown). <br />2. "Black Crack" (Name Unknown). <br />3. Teenage Prostitutes.
The original Teenage Prostitutes Area. Routes sho...
The Tropical Wall.  Routes shown: <br /> <br />1. Observe God's Mistake. <br />2. Lead Farmer. <br />3. Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts. <br />4. Here We Go Again....  Again. <br />5. Earth Mama's Natural Night Cammo. <br />6. Full Retard. <br />7. Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown.
The Tropical Wall. Routes shown:

1. Observe God'...
View to The Gym and beyond from the south end of The Arcade.
View to The Gym and beyond from the south end of T...
Topo of the Cirque. <br /> <br />1. Unknown #2 (Gear Req'd). <br />2. Unknown #3. <br />3. "Spitting Image".
Topo of the Cirque.

1. Unknown #2 (Gear Req...
Comments on The North Gym Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Mar 15, 2011

I'm laughing my ass off at the route names on this wall. Well played, sir.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 15, 2011

Man, the best ones are still projects....

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 16, 2011

Get back there and send those other projects, Mark...I look forward to more great names. Huge congrats on Apogee Pending.