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The North Forty
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Select Route:
Ace in the Hole 
Action Hotdog 
African Herbman 
Around the Fur 
Big Top 
Brand New 
Bulb, The 
Caught in the Closet Again 
Class clown 
Controversy, The 
Corn Grinder 
Cotton Candy 
Count Chalkula 
Cow Killer 
Cows in the Mist 
Crab Louse 
Crimp Scampi 
Dancing Outlaw 
Dreadlock Holiday 
Emmas's Got a Mullet 
Fat Hand 
First Normal Form 
Frankenberry 
Girth Hitch 
Greatest Show on Earth, The 
Green Goblin 
Groovy 
Hangs a Little to the Left 
Harry Butthole Pussy Potter 
Honorary Brave 
Horny Goatweed 
Hurricane, The 
Ides of March, The 
Jackhole 
Kurbcheck 
Lavender Eye 
Leonid 
Lion Tamer 
Little Manly Man 
Little Miss Giggles 
Local Hebrew 
Love Slave 
Meck, Mecke, What's the Difference? 
Mine Mine Mine 
Molt 
More Better 
Newton County Mentality 
Paul's Redemption 
Perfect Hair Forever 
Petrified 
Piratas Putas  
Private Property 
Season of the Storm 
Sonny Jim 
Sonrisa Loca 
Sons of the Soil 
Sour Girl 
Stiff-Neked Fools 
Strongman 
summer rain 
Sundial 
Too Short for the Short Bus 
Trapeze Artist 
Tres Equis 
Tunnel Vision 
Webster's Part 
Zeppelin 

The North Forty 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jeremiah Wells on Mar 14, 2007

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Al over the crux of HBPP

Description 

The Forty wall is full of mainly sport routes with some trad here and there. It is easy to get to and has routes from 5.6 to 5.12c. It's not the tallest wall on the ranch (as short as 35 feet in some places) but has plenty of routes to make up for it. The average climb takes 6 draws plus 2 for the anchors.


Getting There 

If your on the ranch just head up the road heading north past the campsites, then follow the road untill the path turns right. This starts the North Forty, everything to your north is part of this area. Most of the North Forty boulders are just south of the cliff line.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The North Forty:
Cotton Candy   5.6     Sport, 60 feet   
The Greatest Show on Earth   5.8     Sport   
Harry Butthole Pussy Potter   5.8     Sport, 45 feet   
Green Goblin   5.8     Sport, 65 feet   
African Herbman   5.8     Sport, 55 feet   
The Controversy   5.9-     Sport, 65 feet   
Strongman   5.9     Sport, 50 feet   
First Normal Form   5.9     Sport, 65 feet   
Leonid   5.9     Sport, 60 feet   
Private Property   5.9+     Sport, 55 feet   
Sour Girl   5.10a     Sport, 35 feet   
Season of the Storm   5.10a     Sport, 65 feet   
Crimp Scampi   5.10+     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Sonny Jim   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Big Top   5.11b     Sport, 65 feet   
Love Slave   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Fat Hand   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Mine Mine Mine   5.12a     Sport, 50 feet   
Lavender Eye   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Corn Grinder   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Browse More Classics in The North Forty

Featured Route For The North Forty
African Herbman in some shade.

African Herbman 5.8  AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty
The climbing stays to the left of the arete and goes up good holds with some interesting moves down low, and finishes on jugs to the anchors. Interesting climbing....[more]   Browse More Classics in AR


Comments on The North Forty Add Comment
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By gabe14
Mar 21, 2011

OK everyone who's going to HCR at some time. If you want a 5 bolt route (4F) then you need to try this new route that is just left of Love Slave . Its unnamed and not in the guide book yet, but it will be a classic! The movement is great and the sequence is awesome! I dont know what i would grade it, but the guy who i saw working it said he thinks 5.12b/c. I did a entirely different sequence and moves then him, and i still think its a 5.12 something. So go try it!