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DescriptionThe Forty wall is full of mainly sport routes with some trad here and there. It is easy to get to and has routes from 5.6 to 5.12c. It's not the tallest wall on the ranch (as short as 35 feet in some places) but has plenty of routes to make up for it. The average climb takes 6 draws plus 2 for the anchors. Getting ThereIf your on the ranch just head up the road heading north past the campsites, then follow the road untill the path turns right. This starts the North Forty, everything to your north is part of this area. Most of the North Forty boulders are just south of the cliff line. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The North Forty:
Cotton Candy 5.6 Sport, 60 feet
The Greatest Show on Earth 5.8 Sport
Harry Butthole Pussy Potter 5.8 Sport, 45 feet
Green Goblin 5.8 Sport, 65 feet
African Herbman 5.8 Sport, 55 feet
The Controversy 5.9- Sport, 65 feet
Strongman 5.9 Sport, 50 feet
First Normal Form 5.9 Sport, 65 feet
Leonid 5.9 Sport, 60 feet
Private Property 5.9+ Sport, 55 feet
Sour Girl 5.10a Sport, 35 feet
Season of the Storm 5.10a Sport, 65 feet
Crimp Scampi 5.10+ Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Sonny Jim 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Big Top 5.11b Sport, 65 feet
Love Slave 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Fat Hand 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Mine Mine Mine 5.12a Sport, 50 feet
Lavender Eye 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Corn Grinder 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Featured Route For The North Forty
African Herbman 5.8 AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty
The climbing stays to the left of the arete and goes up good holds with some interesting moves down low, and finishes on jugs to the anchors. Interesting climbing....[more] Browse More Classics in AR
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