|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Monomaniac on Nov 29, 2006|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on The North Face||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: the depths of oregon
Feb 10, 2007
|the fa was done by dean caldwell and joe kindler in 1967 via the bolt ladder, then in 1968 tom bauman and bob ashworth did the regular start. alan lester really got the FFA via the bolt ladder in 1983, alan watts didnt free the line till 1985 but via the regular line.|
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 5, 2007
|If Lester climbed the bolt ladder then he didn't free the route (unless he climbs 5.16c), so how can he be credited with the FFA?|
By peachy spohn
Jul 22, 2009
This is the best route I have climbed at Smith!!! It is much longer than full Henious, amazingly exposed, solid rock, and beautiful position.
Small nuts were really useful and a number six metolious is the biggest cam you would need...lots of small cams and stoppers.
Oh yeah, and this route is AMAZING!
May 30, 2013
Wow. Serious wow. I don't comment much, but this is as beautiful of a line you'll ever see; truly inspiring. Though it can be as intimidating as hell, I'd encourage sub-5.12 climbers (like myself) to consider it. It's truly a mixed route, with 2-3 key bolts protecting some* of the tricky sections. There's not a 5.12 move on it, just sustained .11 with lots of rope weighing you down. While the hardest climbing requires gear and comes at the top when you're pumped, it's so steep and there's so much rope out to absorb your fall that it makes a great, great place to push yourself. The rock looks, feels, and protects better than many other cracks on the tuff. The money pitch of the "North Face" is called the "NW Corner", which can easily be done alone. As of 5/13, a fixed line gets you out to the belay, avoiding having to lead a 5.6 choss traverse.
So, go for it! Heck, TR it via the west face cave first, accessed most easily by Monkey Space pitch 1. You'll see, it's all there. Many completely capable climbers have it on their long-term bucket list, but they really could climb it this week. Of course, it requires being comfortable placing gear while pumped, and being comfortable with clean, soft, but long-ish falls on said gear.
I think the best part of climbing is when, with enough effort and faith, you can really surprise yourself with what you can do. I think this route could be that for a lot of folks. Enjoy.