Type: Trad, Aid, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches
FA: Dick Sykes (circa 1970)
Page Views: 2,606 total · 13/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on May 9, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Climb this corner (5.7) to an exiting point 35' above and to the right onto a large ledge. Locate a two bolt anchor and belay the second from this anchor. Directly above this set of anchors is an A1 bolt laddder. There are 12 bolts in all, mostly 1/4" thread bolts and buttonheads, with the occasional 3/8" to keep it safe yet sporty. Climb this bolt ladder to the summit (30'), where a two bolt anchor with rap chains are located. Fix the line to the anchors for the second to jug. Near the anchor is a pile of rocks that secures the summit register (courtesy of Greg Vernon, placed in Feb 2000). A single rope rappel WILL make it back down to the notch, at the base of the route.

As a side note, this location seems to channel most of the wind passing over the ridge and can be a very chilly location when climbing in the winter and early spring (bring warm clothes!!).

Location Suggest change

As described for the approach to the notch of Old Woman Statue, scramble up 3rd class terrain via chockstone in a large crack and onto short ledges around the norhtwestern shoulder of Old Woman's base. Scramble to a notch above. The notch is ideal location for the intial belay and start of The North Face. Next to the notch is a near vertical left-facing corner crack (roughly 30'). This is the start of the route, which eventually leads to the summit.

Protection Suggest change

Key equipment:

- small to medium nuts

- cams to 1"

- 24 oval carabiners

- two sets of etriers

- a set of jumars

- (1) 60 meter rope

- And a cool head!

Photos

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