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The North End

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 
Bird's Nest T 
Childs Play T 
Exiles in Babylon T,S 
Generation X T,TR 
Jack The Ripper T 
Kiddy Crack T 
Knights in White Satin S 
Liger, The T 
Mantleshelf Problem T 
Merrill's Variation T 
Possessed, The T 
Post Mortem T,S 
Raising The Roof T 
Recluse T 
Recluse Traverse T 
Roof aka The Corner, The T 
Slot, The T 
They Died Laughing T 
Thresher T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

The North End  


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Page Views: 24,354
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: The north end (right side) on a spring day....

Description 

The North End is another great place to hone your skills for longer climbs or catch a quick session while making friends with the locals. Cracks abound in this section and there is something for everyone from Childs Play 5.5 to The Possesses 5.11d and almost every grade between. The routes are typically no more than 100ft so you can count on a single rope getting you on to and off of your climb. Unfortunately bolt wars have been raging here in the last year taking a bit away for the appeal and formerly layed back attitude of this section. Hopefully this will be settled soon so we will be able to climb knowing what we will be facing for anchor options at the top.

Classics include Birds Nest (5.9), They Died Laughing (5.9), The Slot (5.10b), and Recluse (5.10d). This was another area that saw major free climbing efforts by Henry Barber, he was involved in the first free accents of all of those routes listed above and more. Gotta respect “Hot Henry”…

Getting There 

Drive down the road at the base of the cliff until just before the orange gate. Park here. You should be able to see the cliff from your car. Find the trail and begin the long hard approach. 1 minute should get you there.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.0 miles from here

21 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',6],['5.10',10],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The North End:
Kiddy Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
They Died Laughing   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Roof aka The Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 90'   
Raising The Roof   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Bird's Nest   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Merrill's Variation   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   
The Slot   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Recluse Traverse   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   
Generation X   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, TR   
Thresher   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 75'   
Recluse   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Jack The Ripper   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 125'   
The Possessed   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 80'   
Browse More Classics in The North End

Featured Route For The North End
Bird;s Nest is on the left, look for the 2 "A" shaped crack systems.... Recluse (5.10d) is to the right....

Bird's Nest 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End
I have climbed this route tons of times, and it never gets old, one good lock after the next up the steep section and a very interesting move as you pull the mantel after the steep stuff.... If you want to practice finger crack climbing at this grade, this is a great climb....Also, good for practicing clean aid climbing....Start at two finger cracks making an "A" shape in the middle of the cliff.... Climb up to a detached (yet secure) block move right to another "A" shaped feature of finger cra...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of The North End Slideshow Add Photo
The far left side of the north end.... The obvious roof is...The Roof....
BETA PHOTO: The far left side of the north end.... The obvious...

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