BETA PHOTO: The north end (right side) on a spring day....
The North End is another great place to hone your skills for longer climbs or catch a quick session while making friends with the locals. Cracks abound in this section and there is something for everyone from Childs Play 5.5 to The Possesses 5.11d and almost every grade between. The routes are typically no more than 100ft so you can count on a single rope getting you on to and off of your climb. Unfortunately bolt wars have been raging here in the last year taking a bit away for the appeal and formerly layed back attitude of this section. Hopefully this will be settled soon so we will be able to climb knowing what we will be facing for anchor options at the top.
Classics include Birds Nest (5.9), They Died Laughing (5.9), The Slot (5.10b), and Recluse (5.10d). This was another area that saw major free climbing efforts by Henry Barber, he was involved in the first free accents of all of those routes listed above and more. Gotta respect “Hot Henry”…
Drive down the road at the base of the cliff until just before the orange gate. Park here. You should be able to see the cliff from your car. Find the trail and begin the long hard approach. 1 minute should get you there.
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
21 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The North End
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The North End:
The Slot 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Thresher 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 75'
Recluse 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Featured Route For The North End
The Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge) 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
: *Cathedral Ledge
: The North End
The first free Grade V in the East(excepting some pendulum rappels)The route has had some repeats.The first ascent took a total of 18 hours climbing time.P1)Climb first pitch of Recluse 5.10d 80'P2) Scramble up and left over ledges to base of inside corner,2nd pitch of They Died Laughing (3rd class) 90' P3)Travers left and up cracks to large ledge,move to left of ledge 5.3 80 P4 Hand traverse left off ledge to a good ledge top of Karens Variation 5.9+ 50'P5) Go along the ledge and down climb to...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
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BETA PHOTO: The far left side of the north end.... The obvious...