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The North End

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be Sharp Or B Flat 
Bird's Nest 
Childs Play 
Exiles in Babylon 
Generation X 
Jack The Ripper 
Kiddy Crack 
Knights in White Satin 
Mantleshelf Problem 
Merrill's Variation 
Possessed, The 
Post Mortem 
Raising The Roof 
Recluse 
Recluse Traverse 
Roof aka The Corner, The 
Slot, The 
They Died Laughing 
Thresher 
Unsorted Routes:

The North End 


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Page Views: 19,790
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: The north end (right side) on a spring day....

Description 

The North End is another great place to hone your skills for longer climbs or catch a quick session while making friends with the locals. Cracks abound in this section and there is something for everyone from Childs Play 5.5 to The Possesses 5.11d and almost every grade between. The routes are typically no more than 100ft so you can count on a single rope getting you on to and off of your climb. Unfortunately bolt wars have been raging here in the last year taking a bit away for the appeal and formerly layed back attitude of this section. Hopefully this will be settled soon so we will be able to climb knowing what we will be facing for anchor options at the top.

Classics include Birds Nest (5.9), They Died Laughing (5.9), The Slot (5.10b), and Recluse (5.10d). This was another area that saw major free climbing efforts by Henry Barber, he was involved in the first free accents of all of those routes listed above and more. Gotta respect “Hot Henry”…


Getting There 

Drive down the road at the base of the cliff until just before the orange gate. Park here. You should be able to see the cliff from your car. Find the trail and begin the long hard approach. 1 minute should get you there.


19 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',6],['5.10',8],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The North End:
Kiddy Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
They Died Laughing   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Roof aka The Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 90'   
Raising The Roof   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Bird's Nest   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Merrill's Variation   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad   
The Slot   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Recluse Traverse   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad   
Generation X   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R     Trad, TR   
Thresher   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 75'   
Recluse   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Jack The Ripper   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13     Trad, 125'   
The Possessed   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 80'   
Browse More Classics in The North End

Featured Route For The North End
The line...

They Died Laughing 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End
This one pitch classic follows a beautiful finger and hand crack exiting a triangle shaped hole in the rock. It is one of the best 5.9 finger/hand cracks that you will lay your hands on. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of The North End Slideshow Add Photo
The far left side of the north end.... The obvious roof is...The Roof....
BETA PHOTO: The far left side of the north end.... The obvious...
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