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Beacon Rock
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The Norseman 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mark Cartier
Page Views: 520
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Jul 16, 2008

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route ascends up the buttress on the right side of Big Ledge. The crux comes just a few bolts below the anchors and involves tension moves around the corner. Yet, the route has a difficult section above the second bolt too. The position is amazing and the bolts are just far enough apart to keep you on your toes. . With more ascents this already quality climb could be amazing


Location 

The best way to approach The Norseman is to climb either Free For All into Dod's Jam, or just Dod's Jam. Once you reach the Big Ledge, above the tree pitch on Dod's Jam, look for the bolted climb on the right buttress/arete of the ledge system.


Protection 

Bolts. The first 15-20 feet takes small cams or nuts.



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By peachy spohn
Jul 28, 2011

I revisited the Norseman yesterday and for anyone climbing at this grade it is one of the best in the PDX area. It definitely has the BEST position of any 5.12 (a beautiful rounded arete 300 feet off the deck with the Columbia River right there.) It's hard for the grade, but very well protected. Plus, if you get on it soon, you will have the advantage of all my chalk. Get on it! PS, I heard from Jim Opdycke that the route was originally named Sacajawea.