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Stay to the right and lie-back the arete past 2 bolts. After the bolts climb the jugs to the anchor. It gets easy after the bolts but don't fall cause you'll be hurtin.
Right side of the formation you'll see the obvious arete with two bolts on face to the left. Rap chains up top, however DO NOT belay off the chains...their for rappelling only.
2 bolts to rap anchor.
|By Nate Myers|
Jan 29, 2009
I found "lieback the arete" to be a bit difficult on this, there really isn't much to lieback on... The version pointed to me by locals is to climb up a series of cracks to the left of the bolts, clip the second bolt, and make a commiting move involving a heel-hook over to the right onto the arete. I found this a bit spooky, but it was fun (afterwards)
|By Jorge Achata|
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c X
I also find it committed on leading due to the long runoff between the second bolt and the chains. I'd try placing a stopper somewhere in the crack that runs up left of the second bolt for peace of mind. If you fall before the chains, I'm sure you can make it all the way to the ground. The first moves on this one are a lot of fun; if nothing else, top rope the hell out of it.
From: El Paso, Texas USA
Jun 17, 2013
Correction: It's called the Nook
A #2 - #3 Nut or #0 Cam works well for the last part if you feel you need it.