Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Nipple Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Nipple Arete 
Nipple Face 
Nipple Wall Left 
Nipple Wall Right 
Nipple Wall, The 

The Nipple Wall 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A R

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: unknown (Steve Bass ?)
Page Views: 2,574
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Apr 13, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: This is the Nipple Wall.

Description 

Just south of the North Slabs sits a right-facing dihedral with a tall, broad, clean wall on its right. (It's the second corner S of North Slab, I think.) A fantastic balance line climbs past a few good crimps at the start, pinches a couple of "Nipples" and finishes on sloper dish-pockets. The rock really reminds me of Shelf. The crux is high, moving through the slopers. A good variation that I did "awhile" back is "The Radical Mastectamy": climb the wall without using the two nipples at all.V4/5


Protection 

Pretty highball, so a spotter might help.



Comments on The Nipple Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By dave v
Feb 13, 2008

This is a fantastic problem. Balance and technique, not power. I did it once in '77. Never repeated. Well worth working on!

By Buster Jesik
Jun 9, 2008

If you want to work it out on TR (like I did) you can use a #3 C4, #1 C4, and a #9 BD stopper for an anchor.

By Ricky Newman
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 10, 2008
rating: V3 6A PG13

Ughhhhh! Best "V3" problem at Rotary, yet so often overlooked. While the fall from the crux can be intimidating at best, with a big pad or two small ones and a conscious spotter, this problem shouldn't cause any bodily harm. While the R grade may have applied back before the landing was gardened, I don't think it is as applicable today.

By Brett Billings
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 13, 2009

This is great problem, really a must do. Like everyone's said, I wouldn't let the landing deter you. I came off 3 or 4 times near the top and landed safely on my pad every time.

By seth0687
From: Fort Collins
May 13, 2009

There is no reason for this to have an R rating IMO.