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"Ve'll cut off your johnson! Just think about that, Lebowski. Your wiggly little penis, Lebowski. Ya and maybe ve stomp on it and squoosh it, Lebowski."
A glorified highball problem on a gently overhanging face, checkered with shallow pockets and incut edges. Beautiful. A V3? move off the ground gets you established on the wall. Crux comes before the first bolt, which is ~10 feet up. Get a good spot. A little sporty past the second bolt getting to anchors. I hesitate to give it a PG rating, the fall would be very clean and airy. Like so many routes in SB, we can only wish it were longer..
Located amongst some formations to the northwest of the main LLUA Crag. See map on the main page for directions.
2 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Walkoff/downclimb easy ground to the north. Easily set up as a TR.
|By Richard Shore|
Aug 24, 2011
Interesting side note - after placing the 2 lead bolts, I bouldered the starting bit to see how the first clip would be, with intent to jump off/downclimb, but ended up free-soloing the route. The first roped ascent came shortly thereafter.
Some of the holds in the upper bit may still clean up. "Bouldering" the route is not out of the question, just ill-advised. No one is going to haul a crashpad all the way out there.
|By steve edwards|
From: SLC, UT
Sep 4, 2011
That must be exhausting.
Rad. Congrats. Wills and I did, in fact, haul pads out there and did come bouldering but it never caught on, mostly because so many lines were just like this; too high to boulder safely and too short to bolt, but heaps of potential if you're' psyched. Enough short hard climbs will yield decent fitness, eh?
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
Some of the most compelling rock-texture at The Playground. Great patina climbing. It's short, yes, but incredibly worthwhile. The only "hard" move is the first sequence of hand-movements. After that, it mellows. I'm more inclined to call this climb 5.11b. It felt easier than The Chinaman, anyway.
|By Richard Shore|
Feb 28, 2012
Agreed that this feels easier than Chinaman. Steeper, yes, harder, probably not. Ive adjusted the grades of both routes accordingly.