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Routes in Rendezvous Mountain North Face
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Cajun Buttress Left, Mountaineers Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dolemite Is My Name T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Husbandry S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Long Night, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Nights Watch, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Poo-Finger S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Shatter Face T M6+ R |
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Toon-Stand, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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White Walker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Nate Brown and Tyler Phillips |
| Page Views: | 839 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Brown on Sep 2, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Route climbs the black streak on the buttress between the Cajun Couloir and the Haas (Hourglass) Couloir.
Tyler and I put this route up in one go and drilled everything on lead. We drilled 20 bolts and left about ten pins fixed on the leads. Of the 20 bolts, 8 were used for anchors. This route is worth repeating.
Pitch 1: first 35 meters are wildly loose and about 5.8. the last 15 meters were the route crux and seemed mid-5.10--bolts and good rock.
Pitch 2: a few fixed pins in the pitch crux protect the first fifteen feet. (a bolt might be a nice addition here). The rest of the 30 meter pitch is about 5.8 and a few bolts help protect the climbing.
Pitch 3: several pins and a few bolts protect the mostly 5.9 climbing.
Pitch 4: some fun slab climbing protected by bolts gets you below the giant boulder. Under and right of this huge obstacle gets you off the fifth class terrain.
Tyler and I put this route up in one go and drilled everything on lead. We drilled 20 bolts and left about ten pins fixed on the leads. Of the 20 bolts, 8 were used for anchors. This route is worth repeating.
Pitch 1: first 35 meters are wildly loose and about 5.8. the last 15 meters were the route crux and seemed mid-5.10--bolts and good rock.
Pitch 2: a few fixed pins in the pitch crux protect the first fifteen feet. (a bolt might be a nice addition here). The rest of the 30 meter pitch is about 5.8 and a few bolts help protect the climbing.
Pitch 3: several pins and a few bolts protect the mostly 5.9 climbing.
Pitch 4: some fun slab climbing protected by bolts gets you below the giant boulder. Under and right of this huge obstacle gets you off the fifth class terrain.
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