Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Scoop Area
Select Route:
anaconda 
General Lee 
Jeremy's Sick Crimps  
Lumberjack 
Next Message, The 
Reverse Scoop 
Scoop, The 
Teachers Pet 

The Next Message 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Brett Meyers
Page Views: 960
Submitted By: Jeremiah Johnson on Feb 17, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The beautiful line of The Next Message

Description 

This problem climbs a crack that splits a 45-degree overhung wall on small island in a pond. Start with both hands low in the crack and make a hard move to a juggy fingerlock. Set your feet, maybe pause on a poor intermediate, and jump to a crystally ball on the lip of the boulder, then press it out. Short, powerful, and aesthetic.


Location 

From Lumberjack, look straight across the pond and you will see the boulder sitting in the pond slightly left of your line of sight. Follow a faint trail around the pond until you can see the overhung face of the boulder. The face of the boulder calved off and left a perfect platform for pads and spotters below the face, which you can access by crossing on a log that's been placed there.


Protection 

Pads and a spot.



Comments on The Next Message Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Mar 20, 2012

This thing feels crazy hard to me. There's gotta be beta I was missing, because it felt solid V8 or harder. Amazing line, though.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 21, 2012

only messed around on it once. to rich for my blood, but it would be everything i ever wanted in a boulder problem.

By MikeF
Apr 7, 2012

I agree Julian. I went there today for the first time & swore it was harder than V7. Did anyone move out to the slopey crimp out right before going to the jug in the middle of the crack? All the other pieces of the crack felt useless.

By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 9, 2013

Heres the beta if you want it: you start low in the crack and put your right hand pinky up high in the first hand crack. Crank your elbow out and use your bicep to pull on. Put your foot up left and move your left hand to a poor pinch. Semi dyno to a finger slot with a foot high in the lower crack. From there shoot out for a little horn. Stick that move, and press out to the good finish jug. Do a wierd little mantel and top out. Check out the view over the swamp in the sunset.

By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 9, 2013

Man, Noah, would you mind climbing Walk on the Wild Side at Cannon next? I need move by move beta for pitches 2-8. Thanks.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 9, 2013

EDGE- you might as well add the direct finish too

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Apr 10, 2013

Personally, I appreciate the beta spraydown. The good thing about beta is that, so long as it isn't in the problem description, you can always choose to ignore it. However, if you are struggling to piece it together, especially on slightly more obscure problems like this one, some friendly beta sharing can be a useful tool.

So, thanks Noah.