The Next Century 

Not a grade VI!! or VS!!! Grade I and maybe S, depending on your comfort level.

An excelent route. The first pitch is better than it appears. Start on the left side of the chimney, move up a few feet and then left into the crack system. The rest of P1 is obvious. Alone it is a good pitch and a 60m will get you down. The p2 is what this route is all about. I thought it was a face climb!? Two 60m ropes with one rappel down the west side to decend.

re: route description. P2 has four bolts, not three. given the thin pro on the route, if you want to load up the huecos with cams, you could fit pieces a lot bigger than #1. or if you're a bad-ass you can stick with the light rack. im not a bad-ass..

one thing the route has going for it is the rock is bomber. really high quality. makes the occasional move high over pro feel a lot better, i figure.

two folks i asked mentioned 10d for P2. i have no opinion myself.

Rack for pitch 2...one set of small to medium nuts, 2 blue aliens, 2 red alien2. You might find a spot for something bigger in a heuco, but you don't need it.'d say about 5.10b/c

really good line...my partner made the second pitch look easy. I'd say the slab is .10d, but my experience on .10d slabs is limited. I was able to do it, though...so maybe .10c, who knows?

Anyway, with two ropes, you can do a single rap to a ledge just right of the route and walk off from there. We pulled the ropes enough to reach the base, then pulled from there...less worry about snags.

thanks for making me sound kick ass vegastradguy. the reality is that this is a sweet route and the pro is fine. (pg at the most) definatly 10d with spectacular delicate moves. bring an array of gear from brass to #3 cam and you're psyched.

The red Brock guide lists the second pitch as 100' however our 70m rope came up just a foot or two short of the 1st pitch anchors. Close enough to clip with a sling but two 60m's would be a better idea. I was happy to have a set of camalots to #3.

I thought P2 was definitely run-out, albeit on fairly easy climbing. The cruxy moves are early and well-bolted, so if you get past those the rest of the pitch should be a cruise. Contra John, I didn't think this was really a slab climb, more like thin face. Suptertopo puts it at 10d. Real good, whatever it is.

doubles to red alien single to #2 cam, thoughtful moves take u all the way!

Great Climb! I don't think it is deserving of an R rating. I'd say maybe PG. The slab/face is way fun and this route should not be missed!

Great climb, great gear. No way this is PG, let alone R. With a 70m cord you can do it as one pitch with little rope drag.

An amazing line on bullet proof rock. A must do for those who like careful, delicate, thought provoking climbing at this grade. Through the retrospectroscope this is not as run out as it looks - but it seems otherwise until you are right on the gear placement. If you drift off the perfect line (easy to do on stone with so many holds) it is R rated, if not then the gear is fine - bring some small brass, a few wires and a few cams 1/2 inch to 2.5 inches.

Fantastic rock and gear..if you go straight and not zig-zag I suggest at least .10c PG13 three stars

Awesome line for a half day. Lots of good stuff next to it as well. Y2K, Walker Spur, and Pine Nuts.

Had a bold feel on lead, but not R in the slightest bit. Lots of technical face climbing up varnished rock. The first two bolts are a little spaced, but you can supplement brass inbetween.

As far as a rack, we brought doubles to 2" and single 3"(for the 1st pitch),RP's. Which was more than enough gear, next time i'll bring doubles to 0.5" and single for the rest.

The guide definitely suggest too much gear. Singles is fine with tri-cams and nuts to supplement. Lots of cool pods that take tri-cams perfectly and some really good stopper placements I am assuming where the guide is suggesting cams in that range. The second pitch is one of the best trad pitches at the grade at RR. Lots of exposure and fantastic movement. P2 looks so improbable from the belay which made it even more exciting!

Cams down to black alien helpful, it's not over after the slab!
R rating is nonsense, single from 00-3, full set wires (mostly small), maybe a couple extra small cams for people pushing themselves on this one do fine. Thoughtful, not scary climbing.

Great climbing and stone. Good example of how a few bolts can allow a classic to happen, without the bolts this thing would never get touched.

Agreed with most above--feels heady, but not R. Under-appreciated. Maybe not one of the 5 best lines in RR, but definitely top tier. 3.6 stars, not a tenth less than that, that's my final offer.

P1 is fun. P2 feels spicy, but never dangerous. Great route but not 4 stars (see Parental Guidance near Dark Shadows).