|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Thompson & Lin|
|Submitted By:||david goldstein on Sep 20, 2006|
|Comments on The New Vernacular||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Golden, CO
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
|I have to disagree with the description here. Though it does have options of stepping left or right to either of the neighboring routes, I thought that climbing the route directly felt very natural and not forced at all. Solid for the grade.|
By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Apr 8, 2011
Dave, my friend! That’s a hilarious rendition of the route! “Discontinuous squeeze job”?? LOL! Fair enough, but why anyone would want to bail left from the clean rock and entertaining movement on the second crux to feed on the bat/bird shit choked flake on Natty Dread is beyond me. While there’s no doubt that skirting crux #2 on can be done, the same could be said for countless routes at Shelf and tens of thousands of routes across the county, which seems to me to be missing the point. Given the route, as equipped, offers an entertaining and action packed line up pristine excellent rock, why not climb it the way it was intended? It's all about the fun, no?
See ya sometime soon! Be well!