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The New New Buffalo

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The New New Buffalo  


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Administrators: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jfoley on Mar 8, 2009
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A typical shirtless sunset, in January.FoleyPhoto

Description 

A short compact basalt cliff with about 25 routes. Expect mostly sport climbs with a handful of trad cracks. A good warm up for The Solar Asylum, as it gets the sun earlier and has easier/shorter routes. Climbable all winter, plenty of afternoon sunshine. Morning shade in summer.

Getting There 

This crag is located about 1/8 mile (5 min walk) West of the Solar Asylum (see the many approaches for The Asylum here on MP). The New Buffalo cliff can be seen above John's Wall to the East and can also be approached by scrambling up the left side of John's Wall and following a faint cairned trail that diagonals up and right (East), about 10 min. For up to date route descriptions,Guidebook & Guide service visit: climbingschoolusa.com/

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.6 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The New New Buffalo

Juaq's Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  NM : Taos Area : ... : The New New Buffalo
Start up steep blocky roof, then layback the finger splitter. Continue up into corner to gain very LOOSE chossy ledge. Finish up short cracks to dead sage. Walk off or set up toprope with BIG sling or xtra rope around big block. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of The New New Buffalo Slideshow Add Photo
Carlos starts The Philosopher's Stone. FoleyPhoto
Carlos starts The Philosopher's Stone. FoleyPhoto
Peter Gilroy Hangin'@ The New Buff Wall. FoleyPhoto
Peter Gilroy Hangin'@ The New Buff Wall. FoleyPhot...

Comments on The New New Buffalo Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Mar 8, 2009
Hip name. Great work Jay and Joel. Looking forward to getting the tour.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 18, 2012
Jay Foley's Mountain Skills Guide's webpage has more beta on this area:
climbingschoolusa.com/newroute...
By Jfoley
Feb 17, 2014
There are just over 25 completed routes now at this little crag. 5.9-5.12a. All the Beta is not in print yet, but the routes are short, easy to spot and pretty straight forward.