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The nerve-west bell
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By Spencer Weiler
From SLC, UT
Apr 25, 2013
adf

Anyone done the nerve up on west bells? Ruckman's give it 3 stars, but not listed on MP. Interested how the fixed hardware is these days, as the topo shows there is a plethora. Looks like first pitch is 11a corner, 2nd pitch not sure, 3rd pitch bolted arete.

BSmoot of the FA party, comments?


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By tenesmus
Apr 25, 2013

Its Burly. Might need hardware update. I'd go work on it with Brian and you if he's interested. Hopefully Brian will tell the story of the fa...


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By bsmoot
Apr 26, 2013
Me in the 70's

Most if not all of the bolts have been replaced with 3/8" 5 piece rawls. One bolt was added to the runnout 2nd pitch. A bolted belay was added to the top of that pitch also. That semi hanging belay used to be from a thin crack. The climbing right off of that belay is sporty, so we though it prudent to add the bolts, although it's not totally necessary. You may want to bring a few thin pins, sliders and micro cams. This is a great route!


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By Ryan Goslin
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 27, 2013
uintas

one other bells question....the sting...should i lug #5's and #6's?
looks wide at the top or is a double set to 4 good?


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By bsmoot
Apr 28, 2013
Me in the 70's

Ryan, We didn't have any really big pro available on the first ascent. This was in 1978 before large friends and camalots were available. Most of the wide cracks narrow to where you could get something smaller in...you should be ok with #4 camalots.
I'm glad your interested in this route...haven't heard of a 2nd ascent. During our ascent on the 3rd pitch, Les was leading...he was getting challenged by the chimney. He spotted a flake that paralleled it. In a bold move, he exited the chimney and launched out onto the flake into a committed lieback. It was a good flake, so he continued until it ended. He was then able to move back into the chimney, thus avoiding what looked like the most difficult part of the chimney.

On the last pitch I used some thick arrows and small angles to ascend the overhanging corner above the belay...more like A1/2 using today's standards. Although the rock was getting gritty, I followed a clean 1" crack to near the top where it ended. Steep face climbing on jugs led to an abrupt finish to the climb. I thought this was the best top out of any Bells route I have ever done. It would be cool to hear from you if you do this.


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