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The Neighborhood

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Dragon Cave 
Zipper Buttress 

The Neighborhood  


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Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 4, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The Neighborhood.

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Description 

The Neighborhood is a perfect after-work crag for those looking for a quick pump and easy access to some enjoyable climbing. Developed by Jeff Achey between 2004 and 2006, the Neighborhood features over 20 routes of various quality. The rock is a highly featured limestone, reminiscent of the Puoux or its big brother, Rifle (pre-polished). With grades between 5.9 and 5.12, there's something here for most everyone to keep them amused and entertained. The vast majority of routes are safely and well-bolted, but expect to find a few routes of a more "adventurous" nature.

If you're looking for peace and solitude, you'll be disappointed by the sound of the interstate below and the occasional rumble of a passing train. If you live in Glenwood Springs or are visiting and want a place to get some quick routes in, you may be pleased with your experience. The crag is a short bike ride from downtown and a few minutes from the car. Afterwards, it's easy to find yourself at the Glenwood Canyon Brewpub a few blocks away.

Situated on the south side of Glenwood Canyon, this little crag faces north and northwest and is great in spring, fall and summer mornings when it's shaded. In the winter, expect to find a lot of snow and little sun. In the summer, the sun hits this crag well into the evening, excluding it from enjoyable cragging after work although in the mornings the crag is shaded and enjoyable. Spring and fall offer the best temperatures and depending on the position of the evening sun can be perfect for post-work sessions.

Getting There 

Park at the east end of 7th street where the street dead ends and an old road heads down to the railroad tracks. Park on the side of the street next to the river. For those not familiar with Glenwood, 7th street parallels the Colorado River on the south side of the river, passing in front of notable landmarks such as the Brewpub and Hotel Denver.

Hiking along the railroad tracks is technically illegal. Hence, it is best to walk along the river. Walk for a few minutes until the crag comes into view and a small climbers trail is encountered leading up to the climbs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.8 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Neighborhood:
California Dreamin'    5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Zipper Buttress
Browse More Classics in The Neighborhood

Featured Route For The Neighborhood
Climbing California Dreamin'.

California Dreamin' 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  CO : Glenwood Springs : ... : Zipper Buttress
A fun and enjoyable climb on good rock. Climb through the "hole" at the bottom and onto the face above. Climb the clean cut dihedral and finish on the moderate face above....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on The Neighborhood Add Comment
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By D-Storm
May 19, 2010
The stone is good here but also demands a different style than what most limestone monkeys around Glenwood and Rifle are used to pulling. There is some power climbing, but for the most part, crux sequences tend to be cryptic and thin, especially on the 5.9s and 10s. With sloping rails and hard-to-spot toe holds, balance is usually the game. Here, it seems to me that endurance and power help more for holding on long enough to figure out the next move than actually doing the move. In short, I've found many of the Neighborhood climbs to be thought provoking. (A tip for 5.9 leaders cutting their teeth in this area: Try not to get suckered into the cracks that look so promising yet rarely give you the security you're seeking at that moment!) Also, since many of the routes top out the cliff, there are still plenty of rocks that might pull out; a helmet for the belayer isn't a terrible idea. Yup, you've got to use your brain in this area it ain't no gym.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Sep 18, 2010
Out of curiosity, anyone ever climb the crack that seems to be fairly splitter, running out the roof, in the center of one of the caves mid way up the wall? Looks pretty good, I'd be surprised if no one's gotten on it in one form or another (aid?).
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jul 15, 2011
Alright.... Well, I went and took a look at this thing finally. I rigged an anchor up top and rapped a single line with the hopes of roped soloing it. On the way up, I was hoping that there was a way to traverse around the mouth of the cave and into the crack above the cave. Unfortunately, there are absolutely NO holds to make that a possibility. Seems you would have to chimney up in the cave and go out the roof crack horizontally. This would be really tough as it's real wide (think arm bars, heel toe cams, thigh torques, chicken wings, and squeeze chimney climbing), and there are funky pods and pinches all the way out to the lip. The rest of the crack was the size described above and very dirty (the cave part seems ultra dirty). After about 15-20 of feet of climbing (after ascending above the lip of the cave), I crested a detached flake in the crack that I probably could have pulled off, and decided I didn't want to get any more crap on my nice clothes, so I ascended up the rest. With extensive cleaning, this thing could be a OW test piece, who knows, it might not even be worth it.
By Dustin S
Jun 21, 2012
Watch out for the trespassing!!!! I hadn't climb here for a long while and decided to take my wife here this afternoon. On the way out, just before dark, we met a cop and he nailed us both with trespassing. Evidently because of the recent deaths in the area (people getting whacked by trains), Amtrak is calling in any one they see near the tracks and pressing charges. While they didn't see us coming or going, they saw a different couple on an evening walk between the station and the trail and called them in. The cop figured it was someone going to The Vortex and was looking in that direction and that's when we popped our heads out. While we were getting our summons, the other couple popped up at the trailhead. Long story short... we got the summons and they didn't.
By Sean Adams
Oct 3, 2013
Helmet found at the neighborhood.
On Sept. 28, 2013.
Contact me at sadamshanger@gmail.com.
Always a beautiful day in the neighborhood.