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|Submitted By:||Michael Schneiter on Mar 4, 2009|
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|Comments on The Neighborhood||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
May 19, 2010
|The stone is good here but also demands a different style than what most limestone monkeys around Glenwood and Rifle are used to pulling. There is some power climbing, but for the most part, crux sequences tend to be cryptic and thin, especially on the 5.9s and 10s. With sloping rails and hard-to-spot toe holds, balance is usually the game. Here, it seems to me that endurance and power help more for holding on long enough to figure out the next move than actually doing the move. In short, I've found many of the Neighborhood climbs to be thought provoking. (A tip for 5.9 leaders cutting their teeth in this area: Try not to get suckered into the cracks that look so promising yet rarely give you the security you're seeking at that moment!) Also, since many of the routes top out the cliff, there are still plenty of rocks that might pull out; a helmet for the belayer isn't a terrible idea. Yup, you've got to use your brain in this area — it ain't no gym.|
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Sep 18, 2010
|Out of curiosity, anyone ever climb the crack that seems to be fairly splitter, running out the roof, in the center of one of the caves mid way up the wall? Looks pretty good, I'd be surprised if no one's gotten on it in one form or another (aid?).|
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jul 15, 2011
|Alright.... Well, I went and took a look at this thing finally. I rigged an anchor up top and rapped a single line with the hopes of roped soloing it. On the way up, I was hoping that there was a way to traverse around the mouth of the cave and into the crack above the cave. Unfortunately, there are absolutely NO holds to make that a possibility. Seems you would have to chimney up in the cave and go out the roof crack horizontally. This would be really tough as it's real wide (think arm bars, heel toe cams, thigh torques, chicken wings, and squeeze chimney climbing), and there are funky pods and pinches all the way out to the lip. The rest of the crack was the size described above and very dirty (the cave part seems ultra dirty). After about 15-20 of feet of climbing (after ascending above the lip of the cave), I crested a detached flake in the crack that I probably could have pulled off, and decided I didn't want to get any more crap on my nice clothes, so I ascended up the rest. With extensive cleaning, this thing could be a OW test piece, who knows, it might not even be worth it.|
By Dustin S
Jun 21, 2012
|Watch out for the trespassing!!!! I hadn't climb here for a long while and decided to take my wife here this afternoon. On the way out, just before dark, we met a cop and he nailed us both with trespassing. Evidently because of the recent deaths in the area (people getting whacked by trains), Amtrak is calling in any one they see near the tracks and pressing charges. While they didn't see us coming or going, they saw a different couple on an evening walk between the station and the trail and called them in. The cop figured it was someone going to The Vortex and was looking in that direction and that's when we popped our heads out. While we were getting our summons, the other couple popped up at the trailhead. Long story short... we got the summons and they didn't.|
By Sean Adams
Oct 3, 2013
Helmet found at the neighborhood.
On Sept. 28, 2013.
Contact me at email@example.com.
Always a beautiful day in the neighborhood.