Mountain Project: Climbing The Needles / Kern River

The upper Kern River Valley, in Sequoia National Forest, is a true outdoor paradise. The area is home to outstanding white water kayaking, fishing, mountain biking and hiking. Natural wonders include the "Grand Canyon of the Kern River" (a scenic waterway cut by the mighty Kern), the southern-most stand of old-growth Giant Sequoias and countless waterfalls, natural water slides, and plunge pools.

AND THEN THERE'S THE CLIMBING.

The area is home to the world famous Needles and several other truly outstanding formations, including Dome Rock and Elephant Knob. It has been said that the Needles themselves are home to the highest density of classic routes anywhere. This is not an overstatement. The overshadowed lesser formations are worthwhile destinations in their own right and should not be overlooked.

Getting There

The Kern River Valley is quite large, so for directions see the description for the specific sub-area you wish to visit

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Needles / Kern River:

The Lieback 5.5 Trad, 2 pitches Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern...

Tree Route 5.6 Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II Dome Rock

White Punks on Dope 5.8+ PG13 Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III The Needles : Voodoo Dome

Spooky 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 175 feet The Needles : The Charlatan

Igor Unchained 5.9+ Trad, 3 pitches The Needles : The Witch

Anti-Jello Crack 5.10a Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II Dome Rock

Thin Ice 5.10b Trad, 3 pitches The Needles : The Sorcerer

Airy Interlude 5.10b Trad, 3 pitches The Needles : The Witch

The Spell 5.10 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II The Needles : The Warlock

Fancy Free 5.10 Trad, 3 pitches The Needles : The Charlatan

Spook Book 5.10+ R Trad, 4 pitches The Needles : The Witch

Tobin's Dihedral 5.10+ Trad, 3 pitches, 380 feet, Grade II Dome Rock

The Don Juan Wall 5.11b Trad, 5 pitches The Needles : The Sorcerer

Ankles Away 5.11 PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet The Needles : The Witch

Terrorvision 5.11 PG13 Trad, 1 pitch The Needles : The Witch

Atlantis 5.11+ PG13 Trad, 4 pitches The Needles : The Sorcerer

Scirocco 5.12- Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet The Needles : The Sorcerer

Romantic Warrior 5.12b Trad, 9 pitches The Needles : The Warlock

Pulp Friction 5.12+ R Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet The Needles : The Witch

Pyromania 5.13a/b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Needles : The Sorcerer

Featured Route For The Needles / Kern River

Ankles Away 5.11 PG13 CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Witch

Outstanding!! Do it one 70M! pitch for the best continuity and full value! IMO, the best 5.11 pitch at the Needles!P1: 10d. Palming, stemming and laying it back is the business at the start of Pegleg/Ankles Away (50'). Its a little grainy and hard to pro but you have to do it. P2: Awesome tips and finger crack action on a steep and bullet-proof slab! The pro is good when you get it in which adds to the difficulties. Trust your smears and go for it! Re-join Pegleg at its top (easy) corner and ja...[more] Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Needles / Kern River

Slideshow

Add Photo

Just past the crux. Anon.	Photo from inside the lookout showing the resupply...	My son Josh standing atop the Charlatan when he vi...
Josh and I standing atop the Charlatan, photo take...	Here I am at the Rectory...on a Herb Laeger route,...	secret swimming hole...
Northern Pacific Rattlesnake, spotted near the Fir...	Needles lookout sign	The Needles
Black Bears are a common sight throughout the Kern...	Horned Lizard--another of the extraordinary creatu...	white punks on dope
Try the Kern "Just Outstanding IPA". Photo by Blit...	Try the Kern "Anniversary Ale". Photo by Blitzo.	gone, but not forgotten, pt. 1
gone, but not forgotten, pt. 2	The Needles, pictured from the summit of dome rock...	The Needles and Kern drainage.
Dome Rock and the Needles...They don't look quite ...	Pono, thinking about getting back into climbing

Comments on The Needles / Kern River

Add Comment

Show which comments —

By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Sep 14, 2011

"There is a God, and, obviously, he climbs." - Sam Lightner Jr.

He said this about a route in Thailand, but I can't think of a better way to describe the Needles. I could give 4 stars to pretty much every route we did there. Far and away the best climbing area I hit on my CA road trip and in my top three locals of all time.

Igor Unchained
Airy Interlude
Fancy Free
Thin Ice
Spooky
The Howling
Lost at Sea
Atlantis

ALL CLASSIC!

By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Sep 21, 2011

How early in the spring can you start climbing here?

By Killing In The Name Of
Oct 14, 2011

Elephant Knob is not worth the hike, for those who are considering it. The cliff got burnt up in a wildfire a few years back and it is DONE. Started up a couple of the "classics" but it's all kitty litter rock now and the hardware has been cooked and isn't trustworthy either.

By Ryan Kempf
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 3, 2012

Anyone know when the earliest the needles area is climbable in the spring? Trying to plan a mid May trip.

By ttriche
From: Altadena, CA
Apr 3, 2012

This year, with snow levels as low as they are, it is entirely possible that the trail could open in May or even later this month. Up-to-date conditions at the Ponderosa down the road can be found at www.ponderosaca.com/wx.htm if you want to try and time it.

The area itself is climbable year round, but the main approach is gated and the hike in becomes about twice as long when the road from 190 to the campground is blocked by snow. Expect 60-90 minutes then.

You could always camp at Peppermint Springs and climb on Voodoo Dome if nothing else seems to be workable. Unless it's pissing down rain, there's almost always *something* climbable up there.

By ryan albery
From: Flag
Jun 18, 2012

I spent last week climbing at the Needles, and when I stopped at the Ponderosa Lodge for a few beers and asked to see the guidebook they used to have, they told me it was stolen a few years ago. I decided to leave my old copy there for all climbers to use, so they now have this hard to find book if you're needing some info on the area. Hopefully it stays put for many years to come.

By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jun 20, 2012

^^^^^^^^^^^^

Way super cool on you as I don't have the guide, won't pay out the ass for one and love to climb less traveled routes at the Needles.

Now I can draw topos on their napkins again. THANKS!!!

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jun 21, 2012

Agree with Sal. Thank you Ryan for leaving the guide at the Lodge. Very kind of you.

Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
	ADVANCED

The Needles / Kern River

Description

Getting There

The Classics