|The Near Trapps
Easy access, classic climbs, and easy descents make the Near Trapps a popular area at the Gunks, second only to The Trapps in climber visits. The cliff is 30' to 200' feet high, and sports almost 200 routes. The most popular area is the north end (closest to the parking lot), with many classic routes one after the other. The middle section of the cliff has loose rock and not many good climbs; be careful of rockfall in this area. More good climbs are found at the far (south) end of the cliff, a 20-to-30-minute hike from the parking lot.
We've subdivided the cliff into for areas for now (2013): two areas before the closure, and two areas after it. Before the closure, the areas are split by the giant hanging right-facing corner of Gelsa. The closure is marked by the obvious orange right-facing corner mid-cliff that is Eenie Meenie. The next division is at Harvest Moon, a striking hand crack on the right side of a leaning block.
To descend from climbs on the right end of the cliff, follow the cliff-top trail to the climber's right, circling around the cliff and back to the base by the route Kansas City. For climbs on the left end of the cliff, follow the cliff-top trail to the climber's left, and descend the gully at the end of the Near Trapps. Many climbs have rappel anchors which allow descent after one or two pitches without going all the way to the top of the cliff.
From New Paltz, take Main St. (Rt. 299 West) to the T-junction with Rt. 44/55. Go right, up the hill. Pass the Mohonk Preserve Visitor's Center and continue past the hairpin turn up to the top of the hill.
Park at the West Trapps Lot, and walk up to the steel bridge. It is not recommended to park at the "30-minute" lot on the left at the top of the hill, unless you'll only be staying less than 30 minutes; tickets are $125.
A private party who owns a short section of the Nears cliff has closed his land to climbers for geopolitical reasons.
This means for routes from the beginning of the Nears to Eenie Meenie or Moe, you'll approach as usual, from a trail heading towards the rock between the steel bridge and the Overlook lot.
For routes past Moe, you'll need to slingshot around the cliff. Walk south on the carriage road from the steel bridge, then turn left at the second trailhead -- the Millbrook Ridge Trail (blue markers). In about 15 minutes, you'll come to an intersection where blue markers meet red markers, and a new, orange-blazed/staked trail heads east and down a slope, depositing you right at the Far End of the Nears.
This overall approach takes about the same time to approach the far end of the cliff than it does to hike all along the bottom of the Nears.
Dick Williams' The Climbers' Guide to the Shawangunks: Near Trapps -- Millbrook is purple, and was published in 2008 by the in-house Vulgarian Press. Find it at Rock and Snow. In addition to updated descriptions of old routes, Dick and company (often Annie O'Neill) went on an FA spree in the mid-2000s; most if not all of those new routes are described here.
Other editions include:
Shawanagunk Rock Climbs: The Near Trapps and Millbrook. Dick Williams, American Alpine Club Press 1991, aka the "black Dick".
The Gunks Select, Dick Williams, Vulgarian Press, 1996. Contains the best routes at the Trapps, the Near Trapps, and Skytop. (Out of print).
The Gunks Guide, Third Edition, Todd Swain, Falcon Press, 1995. All-inclusive guide to The Trapps, the Near Trapps, Skytop, and Millbrook.
Shawangunks Rock Climbs: The Near Trapps and Millbrook, Dick Williams, The AAC Press, 1991. Part of the three-volume "brown Dick" set. Contains all the Near Trapps climbs, as does Swain's guide.
118 Total Routes
['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',41],['2 Stars',46],['1 Star',22],['Bomb',2]
Browse More Classics in The Near Trapps
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Near Trapps:
Featured Route For The Near Trapps
Disneyland 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b NY
: The Gunks
: ... : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge...
The classic 5.6 route in the Nears. Short approach and very popular.Start about 30' left of Broken Sling, at a large corner capped by a roof. There is a big tree near the start of the climb.P1: Climb up the face, angling right, past several old fixed pins. Make an awkward move around the nose to a cramped belay. 5.6, 45'.P2: Move left and climb a steep corner to a roof, passing more old fixed pins. Traverse right under the roof, and continue to the top. 5.5, 110'.Pitches 1 and 2 may be comb...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
Latest Regional Forum Messages
At the 5.7 crux on the last pitch of Yellow Ridge....
Near Trapps at night.
Moonset over the Nears
Don't recall the name of this climb... it's in the...
Same climb as the other picture - if anyone knows ...
|Comments on The Near Trapps
Oct 24, 2011
This weekend I walked along the carriage trail from the iron bridge to the Bayards trail and then over to the far end of the Nears past the closure. Didn't time it on the way there, but on the way back it took less than 30 minutes from the bottom of the nears by the spring to the iron bridge. It's actually a nicer walk than the climber's trail along the bottom of the cliff and the far end of the Nears was empty despite the perfect crisp October weather.