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Owl Tor
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The Natural 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: John Perlin
Page Views: 349
Submitted By: andy patterson on Oct 31, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Andy Patterson sticking the crux throw off of the ...

Description 

One of the shorter routes at the Owl Tor. Some of the locals don't like it. Other climbers love it for its short, bouldery crux. Either way, it has some memorable—and very powerful—sequences.

The crux comes about halfway up with a strenuous move off a crimp to a poor two-finger pocket, then a rather dynamic lunge to a jug. Then you just hang on till the chains.


Location 

Just to the left of Auto Magic. The route begins right by a smallish tipped-over tree.


Protection 

Fixed draws, with open shuts at the top.



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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 12, 2013

Think of this route as the "harder" version of Auto Magic.

By Grover
Jul 8, 2013

This route deserves 3 stars for a couple reasons, it has the best start stone in Santa Maria and one of the best moves. The crux of this route is a pile.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 9, 2013

I actually love the crux of this route. My main beef with The Natural is that it isn't long enough, and is kind of a one-move-wonder. Different strokes, I guess.

By Grover
Jul 9, 2013

Different strokes for sure, if it wasnt for the new start stone id give it a star and a half tops. This route begs to be climbed now, the stone lures you in.