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Routes in Bartizan Wall
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Crack of Earthly Delights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Elrod's Epic T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kevizan T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Naked Rib, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Storming the Castle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Window on the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Paul Muehl & Pete Delannoy 1980's? |
| Page Views: | 1,841 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Hirsch on Apr 22, 2012 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
A lesser known and rarely climbed needles classic. This route has plenty of exposure and run-outs on great face climbing. Only seven bolts on the 60m second pitch ;)
1. 90' 5.8; Scramble up to the base, start original route on the E side following dihedrals and flakes. Or start up higher in the gully on the W side for shorter, easier, more direct approach. Belay at a large flake on a ledge. Single rack.
2. 190' 5.10c; Straight up the rib, climb through short crux at the first bolt. Getting to the second bolt is the R section, but gets easier the further out you get. Micro gear can be placed out right to reduce the distance between bolts five and six. Don't climb the crack, stay left. Finish on the airy, low angle arête. Anything from a BD .5 - #3 will work for an anchor. 70m rope recommended.
1. 90' 5.8; Scramble up to the base, start original route on the E side following dihedrals and flakes. Or start up higher in the gully on the W side for shorter, easier, more direct approach. Belay at a large flake on a ledge. Single rack.
2. 190' 5.10c; Straight up the rib, climb through short crux at the first bolt. Getting to the second bolt is the R section, but gets easier the further out you get. Micro gear can be placed out right to reduce the distance between bolts five and six. Don't climb the crack, stay left. Finish on the airy, low angle arête. Anything from a BD .5 - #3 will work for an anchor. 70m rope recommended.
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