Mountain Project: Climbing Indian Creek

From Generic Crack, walk about 60' to the left. There you will see a huge flake in a left-facing corner. This flake forms a tips-crack on the right, and a finger-to-hand crack on the left side. A double chain anchor is 35' off the ground, just above the top of the flake. A single bolt and ring are above the right hand side, to serve as a directional to protect the fingertips varaition (5.11+, TR)

P1: Climb to the top of this flake (5.9) fromt he left, with good protection and simple, but powerful moves.

P2: Climb up the corner, in agreat and solid tight-hands crack. This starts as a 2-2.5" crack for a bit, the eases up to really good hands for a few moves. After a few more moves, the climb drastically changes its nature. The corner becomes softer rock (but still safe) and turns into a "double-inset" up above. This is like having 2 aretes facing nose-to-nose with 12" in between and a chunk of rock some distance behind. The fun part may be the shenanigans you pull to achieve one no-hands rest after another, by heal-toe, knee-bar, or other odd modes, using the hollow area back in the corner for these positions. Once past the steepest part of the rock, smaller cams are more useful than large ones (1-1.5"). No OW gear is necessary.

A beginning leader may likely find the distance between a few of the pieces disconcerting when combined with the odd positions of theis route, and as a result will tunnel back in to chimney the moves. That's no fun, so let it all hang out and enjoy it!!!

Protection

A wide assortment of gear. The bottom pitch (35') protects well on a single set of cams. The second pitch (80') requires plenty of gear from 3" to 3.5" (Blue Camalots are good) Up above the overhang, where the crack appears widest, narrow gear, 1" to 1.5" can be used in a hidden-from-view crack. No O.W. gear is necessary. The upper pitch is soft roack and is flaring in spots and will produce some odd body position. Although the grade is moderate overall, I'd loathe to recomend this to a beginning leader.

Comments on The Naked and Dead

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By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Sep 24, 2002

I enjojed it ver much, you can run the pitches together.

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 8, 2002

Enjoyable route, note that the first pitch can be led at 5.8 or so. From there chains allow an easy rap off, or better yet, TR the 5.11d thin flake just right of it.

By brian benjamin weinstein
Mar 23, 2004
rating: 5.10a

the second pitch of this route is of very high quality. tony describes it well. a nice double crack (hands) to a fun off-width, this pitch is not to be missed. i plugged a #4 in the left side of the offwidth but a little seam to the right (small gear) continues to the chains. solid variety.

By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Apr 25, 2005
rating: 5.10a

This is a really fun route. The second pitch is great-a little sandy towards the top. I felt just fine with gear upto 2" in the off-width section.

By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 27, 2006

It seems that Pitch 1, the 5.8-5.9 varied fingers/hands crack on the left side of the flake, is listed on Battle of the Bulge Buttress as the "Warm-Up" route 5.8+...correct me if I'm wrong?

By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Oct 3, 2007

first pitch is fun

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 2, 2011

imho the first pitch is pretty stiff for a 5.8. Deserves at least a plus. Think the description at the top assigning it a 9 is probably a bit closer. But of course everything is subjective. Just comparing it to say the first pitch of the Bastille which some people now rate as 8 or Reggae in Eldo for example. Quite a bit harder. Good fun pitch though!

By davecro
From: Golden, CO
May 9, 2011

Second pitch is sandy

By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 20, 2012
rating: 5.10 PG13

Had fun on this one, the first pitch is kind of strange but, once you get past the first 40 feet, the twin cracks are stellar. The chimney has lots of places for gear and is pretty sandy but, well worth doing.

Do it as one pitch, lower with 70. Also, you can set up a TR on the layback 11 to the right of the first pitch.

Good fun!

The Naked and Dead

5.10 R

Description

Protection

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