|Battle of the Bulge Buttress
This route is located in the back of the corridor above Railroad Tracks. Top out on Railroad Tracks and walk to the back of the chimney, the crack/flake on the right is the route. In the warmer months, this is a fun alternative to the heat. THIS IS A LONG PITCH AND REQUIRES TWO ROPES TO GET OFF! I was unpleasantly surprised when the length in the Indian Creek guide was wrong. No one should have to hike back down to the truck in the summer heat only to hike back up and then jug all the way back up to the top because of a little type error.
The climbing is fun chimneying to start until about Twenty-five feet up when the chimney widens and you have to transfer to just the crack. From there, a couple of wide sections and twenty to thirty more feet of solid, slightly overhanging 5.10 tight hands and hands to the top. Oh, and the top move is a little spicy.
Bring one of everything from .5 to #4 Camalots and three or four of .75 to #2 or #3. Watch for sap in the top of the route and again, bring two ropes.
|By Rob Dillon|
Mar 3, 2007
I always wondered about this one. Thanks for the beta!
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2008
We only had to down climb the last 20ft with a 70m from the anchors (NOT the topout tree).
|By Vince MacMillan|
From: Dolores, CO
Dec 13, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
"Like, zoinks, Scoob!" A bitchingly long,varied pitch.
|By Devin Fin|
Jun 29, 2010
this is a rad pitch !!!! slings and 2 ropes some extra two inch pro. sap at the top for sure . bomber anchors do this thing!!
|By earl mcalister|
Jan 30, 2011
My favorite pitch at the Crick. Varied and in an amazingly cool location. I would recommend bringing 4 red camalot size pieces and 3 of everything else.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Mar 28, 2011
This route can be used to put a TR on "Like a Prayer" a new (and spicy) 5.13- to the left of railroad tracks. Still bring 2 ropes and rappel down and left.
|By ben jammin|
From: Moab, UT
Mar 28, 2014
Just to clarify, this climb is located ALL the way in the back on the right side. It's a R facing corner. I went in the corridor and went up the splitter halfway back on the left wall. BAD IDEA! There is no anchor and deposits you on a sloping ledge/tower w/ no anchor. I ended up single line rapping with my friend counter-weighting using a 'groove' so the rope wouldn't slide off the ledge and lead to my ultimate demise. 'Yer Gonna Die' FA Ben Riley 5.11- X. (Note: I'm being funny, there is still no anchor's up there and it's not a real rock climb)
From: Salt Lake City
May 1, 2014
This thing is so GOOD! Do the first pitch of railroad tracks and walk all the way back on a good ledge to the chimney with a crack on the right. I found a .4 camalot handy. You will definitely want three #3 camalots. I only had two and had an exciting runout to the chains. The rest of the gear listed here is accurate. The person who said this was their favorite route was spot on. The crack is a little sandy because not many people climb it. Keep an eye out for loose rock and definitely belay with a helmet. I grabbed a hold inside the crack and broke a baseball size hold off, nearly missing my belayer. Also loose stuff near the top out moves.
The anchor as of 4/28/14 consists of two bomber bolts with tat and 2 rap rings and 1 quick link. The tat could use some replacing. It would be a great idea to bring a knife and new webbing or cord to replace the tat.