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The Muttonhead dome is the slightly less prominent dome to the left of the Sheepshead as viewed from the Sheepshead parking area. Much of the climbing on this dome is mixed trad/sport routes. The rock quality is generally solid but a helmet is definitely still a good idea.
Follow the same general approach for the Sheepshead. Once you reach the base of the Sheepshead take the trail that heads westward along the base of the formation and starts heading up the gully between the Sheepshead and the Muttonhead. After about five to ten minutes there will be a faint climbers trail that diverges from the main trail and heads west. Take this trail for another ten to fifteen minutes and you will arrive at the Southwest face of the Muttonhead dome.
10 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Muttonhead
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Muttonhead:
Mystery of the Desert 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 5 pitches
Tour Buses Welcome 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b Sport, 4 pitches, 320'
Unknown (L side of SW face) 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport, 2 pitches, 260'
The Inevitable Awaits You 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Unknown (R side of SW face) 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Sport, 3 pitches, 285'
Steep Short Green Streak 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Sport, 60'
Featured Route For The Muttonhead
Unknown (L side of SW face) 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b AZ : Cochise Stronghold : ... : The Muttonhead
A fair two-pitch bolted line that is worth doing if you are in the area.Pitch 1 (5.10-, 150'): Climb up bolts along the arÍte. When the bolts leave the arÍte step right, plug in an optional cam, and make a 10-move on to a dike. Continue along bolts passing more dikes and a tree. Belay at a two bolt anchor. Pitch 2 (5.10, 110'): Run it out from the anchor on easy ground to a series of bolts leading up 5.9-5.10 slab. You will arrive at a ledge with a diagonal crack protected by more bolts. Fo...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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