The Mutant 5.12a V4
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| Type: | Sport, Boulder, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a V4 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Jesse Ryan on May 30, 2004 |
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Photo by Logan Jauernigg.
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Description This is a combination of two submissions. To avoid a duplicate post, the second post is added on here.
This short, steep, pocket-pulling, boulder problem on a rope - not your usual Shelf affair - is on the Incredible Hulk Boulder. To get there, either hike to the far side and aim down or follow the approach path from the right side of Bulge wall at the Gallery, look for a faint path to the right (the main trail heads up to the far side and you will have to scramble down again). This is the right line of three on the SE side of the boulder, just right of the 13. Sweet long pulls and quick problem solving end just as quickly. You may give this three stars if you like this style - I prefer it to last longer. Given 11d by Van Horn's guide and 12a/b in Knapp's -fun line no matter the grade.
Per LeeAB: this is really fun pocket climbing on the steep face. All the holds are good by Shelf standards, but the wall is way steeper. I lead this route several times and bouldered it a couple. I have a friend who at the time had not climbed 5.12- but could boulder up to V6 who was working it as a boulder problem, so while the fall is big from the top, it is not terrible.
- 4 Stars is for bouldering it, 3 stars for leading. As a boulder problem, it is tall and proud, even if you do it on a rope first (obviously even prouder if not checked out on a rope), but as a lead it's just too short for 4 stars.
Protection 3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor shared with Super Phrique or (per LeeAB) pads.
Location Per LeeAB: the right hand line on the down canyon face of the boulder.
Second bolt on The Mutant.
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Zach on The Mutant.
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By Ben Randolph
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 27, 2006
| This was a really fun boulder problem. 2 stars for a route but 4 for a boulder problem. Worth doing if you're tired of the technobabble of Shelf and really feel like pullin'. |
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 19, 2008
| How's the landing, and how high is the business? |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 21, 2008
| There really is no part that is the "business" per say, though it is a little harder at about 15 feet, for the hands. The landing is pretty flat, though there is a boulder to your right that you may want to be spotted off of. As I said a friend of mine was trying to boulder this and took several falls and I don't recall him hitting the boulder to the right or even coming all that close, though he may have been bailing.
Of course, this could have all changed if the canyon had flash flooded since I'd last been there.
You should definitely do it, Mono, but don't tell K that I told you to. |
By doug rouse
Feb 20, 2009
| This would be a tall cool one w/o a rope. I remember back in the early nineties I arrived at this boulder to find Dan and Darryl working the .13 They were all about how I should try the Mutant because "it's maybe .11b". Nice sandbag guys! I sent it 2nd try, and they shut up.... Hmm memories.... |
By Ian Spencer-Green
Jul 9, 2009
| I bouldered this after leading it a few times and was quite scared. I don't know what the landing looks like now, but it felt more like a solo than a boulder problem to me. |
By Travis Lee Thompson
Oct 6, 2010
| Could use a little beta through the first 10-15 feet? Definitely felt harder than V4, in my opinion, but I be doing some whack beta. Please help, definitely want to send next time I go down to Shelf. |
By slim
Oct 6, 2010
rating: 5.11d
| Interesting to see people suggesting bouldering this thing. If I remember correctly, the crux is at the top. |
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Apr 4, 2011
| Definitely boulderable... good landing. |
By mlloyd
From: denver
Nov 4, 2012
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By Austin Cooner
Nov 12, 2012
rating: 5.12a V4
| Incredible as a boulder problem. Landing zone is good. The topout is not easy. |
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