The location of this route is not easy to describe, but it lies more of less in the middle of the crag. Look for a bolted low angle buttress right of a shallow gully leading to a large pillar with slings 80' up.
P1: 4 bolts to a belay from the slings atop the pillar (5.7), 80'. The rock seems potentially crumbly here, exercise caution. There is one place on this pitch where a cam or small stopper may be placed, about 5' above the 4th bolt.
P2: 6 bolts to a 2 bolt rap anchor (5.8), 80'. You could combine these two pitches in one, although a 200' rope might be needed for this. You can rap from the top to the bottom with two 50m ropes (or do 2 raps if you only have one rope).
A selection of stoppers and small cams can supplement the bolts, but are not required.
Todd Pett following pitch 1.
Todd Pett leading pitch 2.
Rapping the route, taken from the base. The route...
|By Tim Fischer|
Mar 17, 2003
An excellent route, I would give it 2 stars. We did it in 2 pitches, rapping once from top with double 60m ropes. Pitch 1 to the slings at the top of the pinnacle measured out close to 100', and pitch 2 was around 60-70'. A few stoppers and tri-cams came in handy.
Apr 10, 2003
Check out the large block which looks to be precariously balanced more or less directly above and slightly to the left of this route and then think twice about doing it on a windy day!
|By Matt Juth|
Sep 12, 2003
It has definitely cleaned up a bit in the last few years. The last moves are airy and exciting for a 5.8!
|By Bo Johnston|
Jun 7, 2004
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Just finished climbing this route today when it was almost 100 deg. out and the river running fairly strong as we crossed it in our shoes. It may have been a little more exciting crossing the river than climbing this route but it's hard to turn down a bolted 160' climb! We found the crux to be getting to the 1st bolt and possibly some move up on the second pitch (we climbed the route as one pitch). On the second pitch there is a rather loose block that you use to pass the steep section. Something to think about when yarding on it. Worth a visit and possibly not quite 5.8. Oh, and I really can't see why anyone is placing gear on this route except for practice.
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 1, 2009
No loose rocks or sketchy rock encountered. No need for gear either, not that there's much opportunity to place much either.
|By Bruce Hildenbrand|
Oct 6, 2010
As others have pointed out, this route has cleaned up nicely and is most likely a two-star route.
Someone replaced the slings on the top of pitch 1 with a two-bolt anchor. Unfortunately, they positioned the bolts incorrectly (you want to use a vertical orientation, not a horizontal orientation, when placing an anchor that is perpendicular to the direction of the rappel). As configured now, almost all the force from the rappel is loaded onto only one of the bolts.
Also, it would have been nice for the bolts to be stainless steel rather than plated hardware. The difference in cost between plated and stainless steel wedge bolts is under $1.00.