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Phillip Tearse
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Jan 13, 2014
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Denver, CO
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 80
Abstract: see figure 1.
Figure 1.
Conclusion: Awesome.
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Adam Reinhardt
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Jan 13, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2011
· Points: 0
Belaying, there's an app for that.
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DannyUncanny
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Jan 13, 2014
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Vancouver
· Joined Aug 2010
· Points: 100
Met a Frenchman who was smoking and reading the guide book while belaying his wife. Seemed pretty standard.
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Paul Wilhelmsen
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Jan 13, 2014
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sandy, ut
· Joined Aug 2012
· Points: 231
at least there's no slack....
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Jim Amidon
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Jan 13, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2001
· Points: 850
He does have his hand on the brake strand........ But this appears to be in the Ouray Ice Park, where many questionable things happen multiple times a day........ Surprising there are not more accidents there....
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Eldo Love
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Jan 13, 2014
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Mancos,CO
· Joined Sep 2012
· Points: 125
Belay Selfie! Really hope he snagged a drink from that nalgine after the facebook post. weeeeoooo im parched! There's just not enough time when cragin ice... this made my day. thank you
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wankel7
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Jan 13, 2014
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Indiana
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 10
As long as he is texting with his climber....it's OK.
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Tom-onator
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Jan 13, 2014
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trollfreesociety
· Joined Feb 2010
· Points: 790
He must be doing a Google search for the nearest tobacco outlet as he looks to be on his last Square.
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doligo
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Jan 13, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2008
· Points: 264
This photo is awesome. Too bad that the PAS, a rack of neutrinos and helmet stickers take the gnar points off...
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chuffnugget
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Jan 13, 2014
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Bolder, CO
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 0
luvin the nalgene-on-harness-look for the hot sweaty single-pitch ice climbs
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Jeff Johnston
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Jan 13, 2014
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Bozeman, MT
· Joined Sep 2010
· Points: 110
Unfortunately we can not see the full story here. A: one knows that you dont fall while ice climbing or so no biggie right. B: We can not see the climber, is that person actually moving, anchored in, clipped to a tree/V thread/screw/ drinking beer ect and asking for a picture. . . Granted assuming that the climber is climbing I would be pissed to see my belayer do that. However if I was clipped, safe and getting ready to rapp/move the anchor, whatever; the belayer was waiting on me I would be OK with the belayer taking a pic/texting.
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chuffnugget
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Jan 13, 2014
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Bolder, CO
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 0
take at close look at photo: it has been photoshopped; his left hand IS holding the rope, but it has been pixeled out.
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doligo
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Jan 13, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2008
· Points: 264
I don't think it's been photoshopped, the brake hand is just out of focus. It would have been funny if his climber outweighed him and took a fall - his fancy phone would be on the bottom of the creek and he'd be dragged on his knees to the wall!
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chuffnugget
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Jan 13, 2014
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Bolder, CO
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 0
look close: you can see 2 ropes coming out of the brake hand end of the ATC
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amarius
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Jan 13, 2014
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Nowhere, OK
· Joined Feb 2012
· Points: 20
David Sahalie wrote:look close: you can see 2 ropes coming out of the brake hand end of the ATC This is a low light/long exposure picture - that is why some rope and his left hand are blurry. He is holding rope in his left hand. The fully blown picture shows that his "ATC-Guide" type device is rigged for left slot belay in the high friction config.
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csproul
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Jan 13, 2014
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Pittsboro...sort of, NC
· Joined Dec 2009
· Points: 330
Even if he is holding the brake hand, no excuse for the other distractions while belaying (assuming there actually is a live climber on the other end of the rope and he is supposed to be actively belaying). Playing on your phone while "belaying" me is definitely NOT ok.
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JCM
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Jan 13, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2008
· Points: 115
Locker wrote: If there is a climber he/she is not in view. IF there is a climber, she/he is probably aware of the dude fuking around below and may well even be CLIPPED in. Too much unknown in my opinion to form an honest judgment. Yeah, I wouldn't rush to judgement too quickly on this one. While the picture is a classic example of all sorts of bad belay practices, and amusing in that way, the picture doesn't provide any evidence that anyone is actually climbing on the other end of the rope. For all we know, the climber could still be on the ground, about to climb, and the belayer is taking a pre-climbing photo with the phone. Of the climber could be clipped in to an anchor at the top of the route.
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JCM
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Jan 13, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2008
· Points: 115
amarius wrote: He is holding rope in his left hand. No, the left hand is definitely up by his face, reaching for the cig. Unless he has multiple left hands, like Ganesh or something. That would be useful for belay multitasking.
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bearbreeder
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Jan 13, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 3,065
A tie off takes 3 sec ... Hmmmm ;)
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mitchy B
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Jan 13, 2014
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nunya gotdamn business.
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 0
I rubbed one out while my chick was on the sharp end last week, couldn't help myself. When i'm smokin' a joint and belaying i have to do like the guy in the pic, wear shades. Other wise the smoke agrevates my eyes.
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Ryan Kempf
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Jan 13, 2014
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Jul 2011
· Points: 371
JCM wrote: No, the left hand is definitely up by his face, reaching for the cig. Wrong. Look again, his hand is up by his face (terrible position to catch a fall), but his hand is holding the rope.
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