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The Muffins Climbing
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| Elevation: | 2,773 ft |
| GPS: |
37.2259, -122.1045 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 24,624 total · 93/month |
| Shared By: | jared toettcher on Aug 21, 2002 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
The Muffins are numerous large boulders approximately 35 feet in height, surrounded by smaller rocks with fun, powerful boulder problems on them.
The Lower Muffins are a group of three similar-sized rocks, with chimneys separating them, and are host to three sport routes in the 5.10-5.11 range.
The Middle Muffin is a smallish but somewhat intimidating blob, with several slightly overhanging routes. Three of these are topropes (5.13b to 5.11d), while "Muff Diver" (5.10b) on the right hand side makes for a zesty 2-bolt lead.
The Upper Muffin also has one sport climb (and unknown trad climbs?) on it, though I know nothing about the difficulty of this climb.
The Lower Muffins are a group of three similar-sized rocks, with chimneys separating them, and are host to three sport routes in the 5.10-5.11 range.
The Middle Muffin is a smallish but somewhat intimidating blob, with several slightly overhanging routes. Three of these are topropes (5.13b to 5.11d), while "Muff Diver" (5.10b) on the right hand side makes for a zesty 2-bolt lead.
The Upper Muffin also has one sport climb (and unknown trad climbs?) on it, though I know nothing about the difficulty of this climb.
Getting There
Estimated hike in: 15 minutes. Distance: 0.8 miles
Starting from the main area parking lot, head into the main park using the Saratoga Gap trail.
This will wind down a canyon crossing the creek for quite some time.
At the second Fork in the road, travel across the bridge and continue down to the observation area.
The path that leads to this and other climbing areas in the area (the Muffins and Shady Rock) is found by walking down the steep bank to the creek right to the left of a "dangerous cliffs" caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck.
Wind down this path about 50 feet and then head uphill to the left of the cliff band.
After about 400 feet of moderately steep path, you will come to a wide rocky and leafy gully on the right side.
The Muffins can be seen ahead on the trail at this point.
Walk straight ahead and you're at the Lower Muffins.
To access the Middle Muffin, go past the Lower Muffins and find a trail to the right heading up.
The bolted route on the Upper Muffin can be seen easily from the base of Middle Muffin.
Starting from the main area parking lot, head into the main park using the Saratoga Gap trail.
This will wind down a canyon crossing the creek for quite some time.
At the second Fork in the road, travel across the bridge and continue down to the observation area.
The path that leads to this and other climbing areas in the area (the Muffins and Shady Rock) is found by walking down the steep bank to the creek right to the left of a "dangerous cliffs" caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck.
Wind down this path about 50 feet and then head uphill to the left of the cliff band.
After about 400 feet of moderately steep path, you will come to a wide rocky and leafy gully on the right side.
The Muffins can be seen ahead on the trail at this point.
Walk straight ahead and you're at the Lower Muffins.
To access the Middle Muffin, go past the Lower Muffins and find a trail to the right heading up.
The bolted route on the Upper Muffin can be seen easily from the base of Middle Muffin.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Muffins
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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