The Motherlode Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Topo of the routes in the Madness Cave, from left ...
Boasting the highest concentration of the steepest and longest routes at the Red, this is where the hard climbers spend the majority of their time. The Motherlode has 30+ 5.12s, ~15 5.13s and a smattering of 5.14s. There are a number of 5.11s in the area but to really appreciate the Motherlode, show up fit and be ready to sink your teeth into 5.12 or harder.
The area is broken up into five sectors, from left to right:
- Buckeye Buttress - Slightly overhaning, technical climbing. Morning to early afternoon sun.
- Warm-Up Wall - Slightly overhanging, technical climbing. Morning to early afternoon sun.
- GMC Wall - Getting closer to the Madness Cave and getting steeper. Morning to midday sun.
- Madness Cave - Super steep, overhanging climbing. Afternoon sun.
Following the driving directions for Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP)
. Once you get to the bottom of the hill on Bald Mtn Rd there will be a large dirt/mud parking lot on you right. Park there and take any of the trails.
Weather station 0.9 miles from here
57 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',19],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Motherlode
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Motherlode
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Motherlode:
Featured Route For The Motherlode
Resurrection 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b KY
: Red River Gorge
: ... : Undertow Wall
Once you're done with the warm ups on the Undertow like Chainsaw, Ale-8-One and Kick Me in the Jimmie, it's time to step it up a notch. Set your sights on Resurrection, the classic 12c right up the middle of the 'Tow.Stick clip the first bolt (some stick the second as well) and make some steep moves to get over a low roof. Now pull on a mix of edges, pockets, pinches, the whole shebang, until finally getting to a juggy letterbox at the fourth bolt. Enjoy the rest, you're through the hard part...[more] Browse More Classics in KY
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Jessica dominates the Motherlode.
Somebody half way up Omaha Beach.
This was my first time at The Motherlode. Rainy fe...