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The most rad Alpine Climbs that have been attempted but never complete?

Original Post
Ross Henry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 55

So I was just trying to get a forum, of what people think would be the most rad, crazy, dangerous alpine route that has been attempted, never complete or was somehow completed?

Kilroywashere! London · · Harrisonburg, Virginia · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 280

skarks tooth/meru, center of the universe....read the article about it in Ascent, absolutely amazing, Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk(especially after Ozturks accident)got it after an attempt in 2008. who knows how many other have tried, something ridiculous though!

Ian Stewart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 155
Kilroywashere! wrote:skarks tooth/meru, center of the universe....read the article about it in Ascent, absolutely amazing
Or better yet, wait until next year when Ozturks feature-length film about the ascent, Meru, is released. Or if you're impatient, the Real Rock tour features somewhere around 25 minutes or so of the film. It really is breathtaking.
Jeremy Monahan · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 410

North Ridge of Latok I

Jeff Lowe, George Kennedy, Jim Donini and Michael Kennedy were lucky to escape the first attempt with there lives.

There's a good collection of quotes from Lowe and Donini on this page

Derek Roland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 0

North ridge of Latok 1. Lowe Donini Kennedy

Hoping Conrad picks this as a project :)

[img] i129.photobucket.com/albums…[/img]

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Edit lol someone beat me to it

But it bears repeating

T.L. Kushner · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

wasn't there a face on the devil's thumb in AK that had never been climbed because of avalanche danger? i want to say i remember something about several expeditions to attempt the line ending in fatalaties.

Dave Meyer · · Santa Barbara · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 270

As far as I know, the northwest face of the Devil's Thumb in Alaska has yet to see an ascent. It looks truly daunting.

backpacker.com/august_2003_…

ChristopherAust · · Ohio · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 25
Ian Stewart wrote: Or better yet, wait until next year when Ozturks feature-length film about the ascent, Meru, is released. Or if you're impatient, the Real Rock tour features somewhere around 25 minutes or so of the film. It really is breathtaking.
Oh cool, I'm heading to see Reel Rock tomorrow night.
Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 19,012

Without a doubt.......NORTH RIDGE of LATOK I. The Lowes, Donini, and Kennedy were light years ahead of their time and they probably would have completed the route had Jeff Lowe not become ill. Just look at the number of expeditions that have attempted this amazing line. More than 30 unsuccessful expeditions. Josh Wharton has attempted it several times without success, claiming to have spent more than 6 months below the face, in total.

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 19,012

Jeremy Monahan.....who's George Kennedy? The party consisted of Jeff Lowe, George Lowe, Jim Dononi, and Michael Kennedy. And the Shark's Fin on Meru HAS been done by Conrad Anker, Renan Ozturk, and Jimmy Chin.
Kilroywashere....where's the Skarks tooth???......SHARK'S FIN, Meru Central (6310m).

Ross Henry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 55

Thanks, makes for some good eye candy, in these slower months

Jeremy Monahan · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 410

Whoops, good catch Benjamin. It was definitely George Lowe.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Benjamin Chapman wrote:Jeremy Monahan.....who's George Kennedy?
George came out of retirement to climb this time instead of just managing the team. Extra rehab really helped with his ankle.

Brendan Blanchard · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 590

A face of the Devils Thumb (AK) was done by John Krakauer, self narrated in Eiger Dreams and Into The Wild. It may not have been the North face though.

Finn The Human · · The Land of Ooo · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 106
Brendan Blanchard wrote:A face of the Devils Thumb (AK) was done by John Krakauer, self narrated in Eiger Dreams and Into The Wild. It may not have been the North face though.
From Wikipedia wrote:In 1977 Jon Krakauer successfully climbed the East Ridge of the Devils Thumb.
If I remember right, Krakauer did his ascent solo.
Kilroywashere! London · · Harrisonburg, Virginia · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 280
Benjamin Chapman wrote:Jeremy Monahan.....who's George Kennedy? The party consisted of Jeff Lowe, George Lowe, Jim Dononi, and Michael Kennedy. And the Shark's Fin on Meru HAS been done by Conrad Anker, Renan Ozturk, and Jimmy Chin. Kilroywashere....where's the Skarks tooth???......SHARK'S FIN, Meru Central (6310m).
hahah shit your right...sorry. and yes. it has, thats what we've been saying. hell theres a bunch of good footage on youtube of the ascent including on the summit on North Faces page, good stuff.
James Crowe · · Marblehead, Massachusetts · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

What about a second ascent of Mt. Logans Humming Bird Ridge? Unrepentant for how many years?

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203
Benjamin Chapman wrote:Jeremy Monahan.....who's George Kennedy?
George Kennedy was with Clint Eastwood on the Eiger Sanction.

How is that for some trivia??
Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 436

This is the correct answer.

Benjamin Chapman wrote:Without a doubt.......NORTH RIDGE of LATOK I. The Lowes, Donini, and Kennedy were light years ahead of their time and they probably would have completed the route had Jeff Lowe not become ill. Just look at the number of expeditions that have attempted this amazing line. More than 30 unsuccessful expeditions. Josh Wharton has attempted it several times without success, claiming to have spent more than 6 months below the face, in total.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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