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The Mortuary

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The Mortuary 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Tony B on May 23, 2012
Forecast:
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Clear
77° | 56°
Clear
80° | 59°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
73° | 49°
Clear
74° | 52°
Clear
77° | 56°
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BETA PHOTO: Boulder with crack, which is seen on the approach....

Description 

The Mortuary is a mid-sized crag for the SSV and hosts just over a dozen routes if you are willing to count projects. If you are to inquire about the number of routes a mere mortal might enjoy, that number is closer to ten. These all face North, at least predominantly, and include both trad and mixed lines. A few prominent wide climbs send the invitation for someone to haul up larger cams, from 5" to as large as you would like to bring, though one of each of the two largest Camalots seemed plenty to me.

The routes here have not seen a lot of traffic so while they lie on fairly good stone, some lichen and chips are still present. Keep your eyes open.


Getting There 

The directions to this crag are not precise, and there is not a single well-worn trail. The approach might be 10-15 minutes and is achieved something like this:

Park at The Observatory (5.2 miles up canyon at a large pullout on the right side) and begin the approach for that crag. Rather than going up to access the climbing there, continue around the right end of the crag well below its base and about 5 minutes further, passing to the lower side (North) of some large boulders, hugging their bases until a large cliff appears out of them, rather suddenly, you arrive at the clif at its left end, near the climbs The Crypt and Cryonics, which both start with a wide crack behind a tower that creates the right-facing corner in a small slot, or 'box canyon' of sorts.


Climbing Season


4 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Mortuary
Hatchet Job with Undertaker (project) arÍte to the left and Slippery Slope (project) in background.

Hatchet Job 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  CO : Lyons : ... : The Mortuary
Two "cracks" (the left is hardly a crack per se) converge midway up the face into a single crack with finger pods in just the right places, though they may be protected by young roses. This crack continues past a pine-tree stump to a rounded top-out with a good hand jam. Horizontal / angling cracks exist where you need them. Start on the lower left, move up to the left crack before getting into the dirty right crack. Follow the crack to the top. If the tree-stump isn't "on," it ought t...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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News
Aug 29 Bentgate Is Hiring: Backcountry Ski Tech 0
Aug 18 New Feature: Season Charts   3
Aug 15 Wayne Crill's Fundraiser 0
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   6
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4

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Photos of The Mortuary Slideshow Add Photo
The Orange Tower (project) is the first route you'll see at the Mortuary. It is recognizable by its overhanging face with orange lichen and a fixed nut about 2/3 of the way up.
BETA PHOTO: The Orange Tower (project) is the first route you'...
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