The Mordor Wall 

i cant wait to climb this route this season... ill try to get some photos to post when i do it...

WARNING: some corrections to the route description with BETA.

Just a note that the 2nd pitch is at least C3F, not a C2. The traverse to the right is probably C2, but up the seam is about 5 or so moves on fixed heads.

Also, P3 is A2, since the bolts are spaced in a way that you have to use a hook, then clip a bolt, a hook move again, clip a bolt, and so on, 'til you get to the easier/fee-able section.

Great route nonetheless!

Whatever number you want to put on it, the aid is very easy, very fun and nowhere on the route could you take a very long or dangerous fall. The heads on p.2 might feel spooky, but the reality of it is that they are good, and even if every one zippered, there is nothing to hit but air.

For pitch 3, I maintain that one bomber hook above a bomber bolt is A1.

Anyway, the long and the short of it is that the route is beautiful, and you should go do it, whatever the grade.

I am betting that not many people have repeated the first pitch free. I know jimmy worked this one pretty good. Very hard and sustained with the quote to me " have you done Heavy Weather ? " grunting 'no" "oh this next section is much harder" for the undercling section.

just climbed it yesterday with adam wilcox... had a great time... a few comments...

P1: I stick clipped the rivet form the ground... the rest of the pitch was a cruise...

P2: Super fun, not too spooky... the hooks were BOMBER and the heads were fine... the last head had a hole for a hook right next to it, i liked that better...

P3: Didnt do any hooking, just top stepped and reached through (im 6'2" so it might not work for everyone)...

P4: i found this to be the hardest technical pitch... awkward and balancy moves above the ledge on micro nuts... A weird mantel off of a sky hook to gain the bolt below the roof... the roof wasnt bad at all it was just slow going...

P5: This pitch was filthy and a bit wet i had to dig for placements... i ended up grappling for tree branches as my feet slipped all over the mud at the top...

all in all, a fun day... a huge thanks to the guys who helped with our snagged tag line and found our dropped nut and returned it to us after finding out that we were on their route... what were the chances of 2 parties wanting to get on this on the same tuesday!

Tried to solo aid this in early October. Midway through the hooking traverse, the cordelette I slung my bathooks pulled through the hole while I was standing on it. Needless to say I couldn't really complete the route with only one hook...Then when I rapped, my rope got stuck so I had to re-lead the first pitch again to retrieve it!

Second solo aid attempt this past Monday, May 10th. Averaged a glacial 2 hours per pitch, and then bailed at the top of the third pitch due to being cold, hungry, and scared.

A high of 45 and windy in mid-May? Hooray New Hampshire.

Nice Dave! You'll get it.

Can any of these pitches be linked? I know that at least pitch 1 is less than 100 ft.

I don't know about linking pitches, but if you are climbing with a partner short-fix and lead it in two blocks. One to the ledge and one to the top. Makes it go fast. Bring LOTS of biners/draws if doing this!

I was under the impression (based on the John Sykes guidebooks) that if hooking was required, it moved the aid rating to 3.

Most of the hooking is bat hooking --A1 + and after that on P2 it's mostly fixed A1, unless it comes out.

Keep up the good effort Dave. I'm gonna follow your tracks when I get the chance!! This is on my todo list.

Pitches 1&2 link quite easily! You don't really need gear on p2 so you're good to go.

Just did the first 2 pitches, and at least one copperhead was missing just before the bulge- I'm 5'6" and needed a 3' stick to clip from top-stepping (and yes I used the hook there!).